Bicycle Secrets

Heard a good tip from my buddy Rob today. Apparently the gloves used by refrigerator/freezer technicians are great for winter cycling and they’re super cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/RefrigiWear-Waterproof-Insulated-Dexterity-Gloves/dp/B00ODHHCDO/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1512344522&sr=8-10&keywords=refrigiwear

I don’t know if this is a secret. I searched with the Googles and found nothing…
I was trying to fish the cable housing for my dropper and dangler on the MTB today. I got fed up with the guess and poke method and took a shot at using my Harbor Freight nylon fish tape.
The eyelets are roughly the same size as a cable ferrule, so it fit through the holes in the frame. I took a piece of electrical tape and folded it lengthwise, sticky side out, and threaded it through the eyelet to attach the cable to the tape. You can’t tug hard on it, but it works well enough.

I’ve heard of using light string and a shop vac to run internal cables, never used the method myself though because the one bike I own with internal routing was taken care of by my LBSbro and the fancy park magnet tool.

Basic idea is you feed the light string into one hole and hold the shop vac hose over the hole you want it to come out of. Tie it to the cable and pull.

The Park IR tool is absolutely essential. Jobs which uses to take a half an hour now take two minutes.

I’ve used baling wire instead of cable. Put a bend (45* or so) in the end of the wire so it hugs the side of the tube and it’ll pop out the exit a lot more easily than a floppy cable. Slide housing over wire once it’s in place, pull out wire, add cable.

Probably not a secret though.

Max, those gloves look dope.

Park IR1 makes life so easy. Used to use bailey wire when Park magnets weren’t a thing.

Now there’s a lot of frames that are literally impossible to work on without magnets.

[Insert ICP magnet reference here.]

It appears as though I was correct.

[quote=Sunrace]Sun Race RS3 11-Speed Cassette
The SunRace RS3 11-speed cassette will work on a traditional 9/10-speed Shimano compatible freehub body allowing you to update your drivetrain with out the need to purchase a new set of wheels. The Sun Race RS3 cassette is compatible with SRAM and Shimano drivetrains. Included with the SunRace RS3 cassette is a steel lockring.

If you are going to use the SunRace RS3 11-speed cassette on a bike that has an 11-speed road freehub body you will need to use a spacer.[/quote][/quote]

In stock at QBP. FW2179. Ordering one tomorrow for my cobbled-together Trek, with the SR parts Ferg generously gave me, and a bunch of other weird shit I had laying around. Will report soon.

Will that fit the XT hub on my endpoint?
Or should i just buy an 11 speed mtb cassette for that thing?
Currently running 10 of 11 road cassette on mtb hub.

Yes, that sunrace or the Shimano HG-800 11-Speed 11-34t Cassette (which would likely be more expensive, as cost is nearly 3x the sunrace).

Dang, they need to correct it on QBP to reflect that it is compatible with 9/10s freehubs.

FYI 5800/6800 danglers don’t really like the 34t

It’s like jamming a 32t on the old 5700/6700 10 speed stuff. It fits but doesn’t shift too great.

This is the info we need

Those cheap road link jawns shift the 34 good? Or only for trying to make it go for the 40t cassettes?

For $5, I’d try the tail hook lengthener

Dq: why aren’t longer tail hooks made for replaceable tail hook dropouts?

you’d need a different part for every dropout design instead of one universal adapter

Why isn’t wheels mfg on this yet

There are dozens of us…

Paragon made theirs for years in short/long and stainless/aluminum variants for QR hubs:

http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/frame-building-parts/hangers-inserts.html

For thru-axles they just a few months ago came out with a longer ‘SRAM’ hanger option in addition to ‘standard’ and Shimano DM: http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/frame-building-parts/hangers-inserts/dr4091-1-1-2-round-flat-mount-dropouts-hanger-for-sram-derailleur-12-mm-hub.html