campy record track post

i bike i bought recently had a record track post on it. not a recent one, but an alloy post w/ two clamps on top that are held by 10mm bolts that you tighten from the top. say what you will, but am i missing something here? i can get the saddle on the rails but tightening the bolts down seems stupidly difficult w/ todays low-profile saddles. do i need to just run some old school saddle w/ it where the rails are further from the saddle’s shell or am i somehow mounting it wrong?

You’re missing the Campagnolo-specific allen key that’s small enough to fit into that tiny little space. Your best bet is to find a 10mm key and chop off enough of the tip so that you can slide it under the saddle.

BTW, it’s not really a “track post,” just a general seatpost. If I recall correctly, it’s really the first micro-adjustable seatpost, and was designed for Merckx, who complained about never being able to get the right saddle angle.

[quote=“bonechilling”]You’re missing the Campagnolo-specific allen key that’s small enough to fit into that tiny little space. Your best bet is to find a 10mm key and chop off enough of the tip so that you can slide it under the saddle.

BTW, it’s not really a “track post,” just a general seatpost. If I recall correctly, it’s really the first micro-adjustable seatpost, and was designed for Merckx, who complained about never being able to get the right saddle angle.[/quote]

cool. they’re not allens but hex bolts. just seems like a really stupid design.

Aren’t allens and hex bolts on in the same? Do you mean Torx bolts?

I hate Torx. I finally went out and bought a full set of T drivers out of frustration.

i have one of those for my roadbike it is a pain in the ass
i don’t have the campy wrench
but i adjust it with a normal 10mm open end wrench
you can do it but go slow and don’t strip the bolts
it takes ten minutes or more just to get a saddle on the post
before trying to level it
i’m too lazy to find the campy tool
they do have awesome adjustment
finally i just bought a shitty kalloy for the bike
but saved the post cause its pantographed for my bike

thanks, doortruck… that’s what i figured.

allen head

hex head

Oh, there were two different posts, I thought you meant the Allen kind (Super Record).

Those hex wrenches aren’t really that hard to come by. This is what you’re looking for.


that’s the campy wrench. one end is for the seatpost, the other end you can adjust tension on a brooks with. since that wrench only has six points in the hex it’s really still a pain in the ass. if you get a box end 12point wrench in the correct size you could probably do it easier.
the easiest way to adjust that post is to make sure the threads are all nice and clean, that way you can turn them with your fingers nice and easy. then put the rails in the post. snug the seat down so it only moves if you move it. put the post in the bike. push down on the back of the seat and see what your angle looks like. you use the front bolt to adjust angle. once you get where you think you want it. then tighten the front bolt up just a bit more, it will make you saddle point down a bit more but this will change when you tighten the rear bolt.
now, just tighten the rear bolt up pretty tight. with the campy wrench i had to bend the seat sides up to get the wrench on the bolt, then turn it some. then take it off and put the wrench in ebtween the rails. turn it 'til it hits the rails (which is like an eighth or sixteenth of a full turn) then pull the other side of the saddle up and get the wrench on there and turn it some more. keep doing this until the rear bolt has put enough tension on the two bolts that your seat is solid. pain in the ass but it’s infinitely adjustable and won’t slip.

oh yeah. that’s just a nuovo record post. the super record post has a single allen in the bottom and is fluted. my NR post is fluted too but origianlly htey aren’t. someone had that done.

thanks, gentlemen. much appreciated!

bb

you can make one of those wrenches easily. go to a pawn shop, dig through the shitty wrech bin, find a 10mm for 99cents, then either bend it in a vice or heat it up and bend it. but bend slowly, or it will break.

the anti-tamper torx are the worst.

but there’s nothing like the 12-point star bolt on a VW axle. spend $65 on the tool truck for the correct 1/2" drive socket, then 1 month later the socket is fuxord. yay!

the anti-tamper torx are the worst.

but there’s nothing like the 12-point star bolt on a VW axle. spend $65 on the tool truck for the correct 1/2" drive socket, then 1 month later the socket is fuxord. yay![/quote]

you can actually get them for pretty cheap. i forget what the magic word is. maybe serrated bit or something in whatever size it is, maybe 8mm.
shouldn’t the tool truck warranty that shit if you paid $65 and it’s worn after a month?

triple square. i only ever fucked them up if the bolt head was full of grit or something. my least favorite bits on VWs tend to be exhaust manifold nuts, the one catalytic converter bolt that always ends up being impossible to reach (not bad if you have a lift) and pretty much anything related to timing chains on a vr6 motor;)

i’m gonna have nightmares now. i hated doing those so much. even though we got good money for doing it, it was rarely worth it. it was easier to do a passat V6 once you realized the whole front end came off in 20 minutes.