I usually put the front wheel against a wall and step on the crank arm. Usually try that with a few different gears. Never had a customer come back complaining of skipping using that method.
I once found out that my chain was too new for my cassette at the bottom of a 600+ meter climb in France. I think that after a few days they mated, but let me tell you that kind of sucked at first.
^^ Usually it’s just the 17 in my cassette that skips, so as a last ditch emergency measure for getting to the nearest bike shop i can just try not to use that cog and/or soft paddle it.
[quote=bward1028]Interesting. Sounds like I could swoop in as the hero in a lot of tune ups then. You saved $40 bucks! Why don’t you spend that on dog earz http://www.calhouncycle.com/productcart/pc/Dog-Earz-p364.htm
An actual product. That we stock.[/quote]
You guys should totally sell bike nutz on the same rack as dog earz
Idtygi
Once I settled on this guy:
And started changing at or before 75% my cassettelyfe has been nearly limitless.
I like this rohloff one a whole lot:
If it slides all the way down on side A, you need a new chain. If it falls all the way down on side S, you need a chain and cassette. If it falls in on side S and rattles back and forth, you also need new chainrings.
It doesn’t tell you quite as much as the pro link one, which is really nice, and does the same thing as the park one pictured above. The main advantage of the rohloff is that it fits into the little chest pockets on most shop aprons pretty nicely, so you can keep it with your pen and your 3/4/5mm Allen wrenches.
this for me.
i pretty much replace my cassette after i’ve worn out the 17t
but i just realized that’s happened to me only TWICE and both on used cassettes that didn’t start out new. one i had to do chainrings also. that was on a bike that was 2nd hand though where the whole drive train was kinda worn out when i got it.
This was cranking a 34/26 on some serious gradeage. Even seated in that gear it didn’t skip. Unfortunately it is those terrible moments when you really want your drivetrain to be working and not send your crotch into your top tube.
Unless I’m missing something, that’s subject to the same misreadings as the CC-3, Rohloff, etc.
Unless I’m missing something, that’s subject to the same misreadings as the CC-3, Rohloff, etc.[/quote]
damnit I thought they’d changed it to use the inside face of the tooth
guess it’s just the hard-to-find Shimano tools then
QBP has it, but it wholesales for the cost of a new chain. I wish I had taken the one from my last job - I was the only one who ever used it.
[quote=b-roll]Once I settled on this guy:
And started changing at or before 75% my cassettelyfe has been nearly limitless.[/quote]
I like this one as well.
shimano tool is rad, but in practice it works just about the same as the tools that double count the wear like the pro gold or the park ones.
and remember that shimano says to replace your chain every 1500 miles, every 700 in wet conditions
yeah right dudes
Lulz at changing chain every 6 weeks. Yeah right.
Dammit, I need new chains on smoothie and orca.
I always have big plans on changing my chain more regularly. I even put it on my calendar. Then the date rolls around and I just shrug my shoulders and think “whatever.” Then I end up replacing everything once a year before whatever big trip I have planned. I usually use terrible SRAM stuff cuz soc heap. More recently I bought an 8sp shimano cassette. I like it okay. Would be hard pressed to describe any difference in feels.
Yeah, for 8-sp shit, I get whatever SRAM or shimano chains/cassettes are available in the right toothway/speedway/priceway at the shop and have never really given it much thought. My shit works pretty well, so I don’t think there’s any difference there.
I don’t get how technically ‘double counting’ the wear is a thing if you are reading out an arbitrarily assigned percentage rather than an actual distance. Seems like the correction is built into the empirical confirmation of the arbitrary scale. By empirical confirmation I mean reliably getting fresh chains to be happy with existing cassettes and chainrings, while not replacing chains at an absurdly fast rate.
the old Sachs/Sedis stuff that became SRAM were the best 8-speed chains you could get (along with Rohloff’s)
their 10-speed chains are garbage though, even faster-wearing than KMC