Yeah, pretty much.
broke my fizik kurve, i think i hammertainted it getting rad on a little shralp trail.
or maybe one of the several crashes as of recent…sigh
anyways while i’m trying to finagle a new one out of hwy 2 i grabbed a demo saddle from a new company we’re starting to work with.
saddle by wheat flakes, on Flickr
also grabbed some of the new blue spd-sl cleats and merckxed em around on the rollers.
holy shit if you have spd-sl’s you gotta try these. hopefully the top of my glute stops getting torn up when I hammer in the dorps.
I wanna try the blue cleats. Also, looking forward to getting back on my Antares.
I also wasn’t to try blue ones. Just saw them for the first time a few weeks ago.
they dont float at the heel…more like a really tight speedplay…it seems better
excited to get some miles on them
I’ve been riding the blue cleats for like 4? months. Love 'em.
Just put fixed cleats on my new bontrager shoes that I’m leaving at the track.
Felt surprisingly spot on in the 1 workout I did on them. Will see after another tomorrow. Used the R.A.D. pedals to set up the rotation, further confirming my belief that R.A.D. pedals are the only way to set up cleats. Fuck eyeballing 'em.
Get me into this. Do they work on SPDs/do they tell you if you need a wedge? Had some knee pain on a long ride a while back and noticed that knee kicking out at the top of the stroke. I put a cleat wedge but it feels like wild ass guessing.
Get me into this. Do they work on SPDs/do they tell you if you need a wedge? Had some knee pain on a long ride a while back and noticed that knee kicking out at the top of the stroke. I put a cleat wedge but it feels like wild ass guessing.[/quote]
Nah… They’re just for setting up cleat rotation. Nothing else really. Kinda spendy for what they are and it requires several different plates for different cleat systems. We just bolt on a different plate for a different cleat system (look & spd sl) fit the same one though
We use a digital laser level to see people’s knee tracking and just have them try wedges if they need them. I use some varus wedges and specialized blue insoles in my shoes and it seems to help me a lot with knee stability.
When doing cleat fits, I just find them very easily to use and pretty much impossible to fuck up. Getting it right is pretty important with the fixed cleats.
i didnt know you guys have that stuff
how many moneys you charge me for a cleat fit?
[quote=dougganita]i didnt know you guys have that stuff
how many moneys you charge me for a cleat fit?[/quote]
We have had it for many years. Our R.A.D. pedals are super old. Maybe 20 + years old.
I dunno what bro-deal price is on a cleat fit. Could probably just base it on time. Maybe like $30-40 depending on how long it takes.
Stated price is $100. I’ve never just given a cleat fit though. We charge $150 for the whole bike fit, so just getting a cleat fit seems like a bad deal. I think the idea is to discourage people from just the cleat fit when they haven’t had the whole thing done.
I got a heluva deal for lunch then, Amy.
Having probs inside top of knee on right, outside left and inside top left.
What do?
Wat?
Can someone give advice on fit/frame sizing for a daily commuter x rain bike collabo?
Should I duplicate saddle position relative to the bottom bracket as taken from my road bike, and then adjust cockpit? I know I’ll want substantially less saddle to bar drop, but is shorter reach also helpful or will that already be accomplished by bringing the bars up? Or can I spare a bit on reach since my elbows are pretty bent as it is on my road fit?
Leaning towards a bigger option that would add 4mm reach and 44mm stack but with a .5% slacker HTA and 1cm more HT, so if I plan to have the bars at least 5cm higher than my road fit reach should be good?
At least 5cm higher seems like WAY too much of a difference for no reason IMO. Even just 1 inch (2.5cm) should be more than enough unless you want the bike to feel like it handles weird. I would keep saddle position and reach the same or close to the same. I don’t understand why people think they need less drop for a commuter or rain bike when in reality you’re on your road bike for a lot more time in a sitting. My cross bike is my commuter and rain bike and it only has 1cm less drop than my road bikes because backpack, higher than that and I wouldn’t want to ride it.
Wouldn’t you have to compensate the taller position on the bars with less setback and a tad higher saddle height? To keep the weight balanced?
I’m new to this but maybe the better question is how do people like their commuters set up in comparison to a race bike?
I’ve got 11cm of drop on my road bike, on my current flatbar commuter I have 5-6. The new one would be drop bars. My roadie is my race bike, I’ve ridden it a couple of times with a bag on my back and it’s not particularly endearing as the position I want to spend all my time commuting in. Weight distro is a good point, I hadn’t thought of that.
If you need to raise your bars more than 1-2cm relative to your race bike to be comfortable on your commuter bike then your position on the race bike is probably too low IMO. I’m comfortable on my race bike so my other bikes are set extremely close. Even with a backpack the fact that I’m not on my commuter bike for 3-5 hours at a time means I don’t really need the bars higher for my back to feel good. Like I said I don’t understand why people seem to think you need a FOP position to commute. Get there more quickly and safely with a good position.
The position on my race bike is a compromise between aerodynamics, comfort, muscle recruitment and power output in order to cross the line faster than the other guys. In this case, the objective is to maximize speed subject to the given constraints. In the case of a commuter, I’m trying to maximize comfort, subject to minimal acceptable levels of muscle recruitment and aerodynamics. My road fit is designed to be comfortable at high levels of power output; a large proportion of my weight is supported by my legs. When I commute, the point isn’t to go the fastest, it’s to get to class/work at a predictable speed without showing up drenched in sweat. I’m not trying to get tucked in, the goal of the commuter is different from the race bike, making that fit impractical for the application.
I understand the handling characteristics will change, but implying the only safe option is to have loads of drop seems a bit over the top. Also didn’t realize my current commuter is in full on FOP territory, I’ll set about tripling the drop.
[quote=Roundabout]Can someone give advice on fit/frame sizing for a daily commuter x rain bike collabo?
Should I duplicate saddle position relative to the bottom bracket as taken from my road bike, and then adjust cockpit? I know I’ll want substantially less saddle to bar drop, but is shorter reach also helpful or will that already be accomplished by bringing the bars up? Or can I spare a bit on reach since my elbows are pretty bent as it is on my road fit?
Leaning towards a bigger option that would add 4mm reach and 44mm stack but with a .5% slacker HTA and 1cm more HT, so if I plan to have the bars at least 5cm higher than my road fit reach should be good?[/quote]
I have my saddle further back on my more upright commuter bike. I am not trying to maintain the weight balance I have on my road bike. Whole point of the upright commuter is more weight on my butt and less on my arms so I can relax, sit up, and wear a backpack without killing my shoulders. I have riser bars on this bike though.
Use your existing saddle position in relation to BB as a point of reference, but don’t stay glued to it.
If they’re both drop bar bikes, I might use the distance from the tip of your saddle to the hoods as a frame of reference when you are setting it up / picking stem length as an easy measurements to compare the reach from one to another if the bar height is very different. I wouldn’t shorten the reach up if you’re already raising the bars unless you really want ultra upright grandpa fit.