copy that stupid and bad design
I hate them. Itās only happened once to me, but ive seen it happen to others plenty of times. Thatās why i only use hammerlock pumpsā¦ generally.
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My only lyzene is a gravel model that lives in the back of my car for cross races. Iām guessing the only reason I donāt hate it is because I hardly use it.
dumb fork question because I donāt know MTB:
my bike came with this:
RockShox Recon Silver RL, Solo Air, Motion Control damper, lockout, tapered steerer, 42mm offset, Boost110, 15mm Maxle Stealth, 140mm travel
should I get this clearance 150mm travel fork to replace it?
oh they have a 140mm Pike too:
or should I spend another $100 for a Fox with the GRIP damper:
ooh, thanks for the heads up. i need a new fork for my bikepacking bike and was going to eventually get something on prodeal, but this is a much better deal.
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if a pike is good enough for Amy itās good enough for me 
I am replacing a judy that came on a bikepacking bike, so it should be a big upgrade.
if you went 150 it might not cause a significant difference in feel, but going up to 160 might make your bike feel a little uneven? i dunno what your rear travel is but i think having a real big fork only suits more aggressive riders who can put enough extra weight on the front to actually use it and keep their front end gripped.
i am actually going 120 to 140 because i have enjoyed doing some underbiking on the bikepacking bike.
This is on a Trek Roscoe hardtail and Iām ~230lbs, all I know is the stock fork is pretty meah and rather than get it serviced it seems like upgrading is a better idea?
Definitely want that dordquo attitude
Both RS forks have a 35mm stanchions, so assuming similar stiffness?
Going up to a 160 would slacken you out 1 degree, which might actually feel floppy and less precise. Iād say go for the Pike? But idk someone else on tarck might have stronger opinions.
yeah I ordered the pike (twice apparently, need to email jenson to cancel the duplicate)
When I weighed closer to 250 lbs, I was riding a Pike. The mid-stroke support was not great, even with three tokens. The suspension guy I was working with recommended going to a Lyrik or 36 for additional air spring support.
You can probably overfork the Roscoe without much of a change in handling. Climbing might be a bit more floppy. If that bugs you, you could always shorten the travel on the 36 or Lyrik.
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I had many years of fighting with elastomer-head pumps before switching to lezyne screw-head ones, and oh my goodness youāve gotta believe I disagree with you there.
(The Clik quick-release valves, yeah, now thatās something that would be much better, but it would cost a stack of money to update all of my bike clutter to them, so itās not likely to happen in this life.)
I really like having a bag on my front rack, but I have many issues with handlebar and bag interaction since my headtube is so short. I know there will always be some issues just because objects exist in physical space and my bars generally have to be in just about the position theyāre in.
When the bag is relatively loaded, it looks like this:
There is definitely some hand touching in the drops and on the hoods and the flats are only medium usable, but I can brake and steer and shift the rear derailleur pretty much normally, but itās basically impossible to shift the front derailleur in one go (Campy pseudo-friction shifting).
I know a more structured bag might not bulge out to the sides much, but I also think a lot of those bags are permanently too wide for me to shift at all with my current bars and Iāve only got 7 inches from the rack to the bars, which limits options as well. Plus I like the ILE bag I already have.
So I think the answer is slightly wider bars with a little bit of flare? I donāt really want to go full wide dirt drops like I see on dedicated gravel/bikepacking/whatever setups, since this is my mostly road bike, but Iām not overly concerned about riding very fast on the road.
Right now I have 42cm FSA compact drops that I bought 15 years ago and just never changed. Theyāve been fairly cromulent over the years. I could go a little wider, but probably not a ton. Right now Iām like 70/20/10 hoods/drops/flats when Iām on a ride and about 98/0/2 around town, so my impression is that I donāt want to have a ton of flare if I want to keep the hoods comfy.
I have short arms and a gut so shallow drops are definitely preferable for me.
Iām thinking:
- Easton EA50 AX
- Pro Discover 12 Degree
- Ritchey Butano Comp
- Salsa Cowbell
- Sonder Spitfire
- VO Nouveau Randeau
Any of those would probably be in a 440-460mm bar. All pulled from the first article on bikepacking.com that popped up when I googled āflared drop bars.ā
I probably will just pick one for some reason and use it for 15 years, but does anyone have any reason why I would choose one of those over another?
Is this even going to do what I want?
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Do you ride the tops at all? Both the Butano and the VO bars have a slight sweep back like the Noodles that might require a longer stem to get the hoods in the same place theyāre in right now, putting the tops/stem closer to the bag.
Iād try either the cowbell or VOās new rando bars. Cowbells are pretty insanely comfortable, though they donāt have nearly the drop that I want, and the kit @igor hawks on the streetcorners are almost all perfect for the job.
(If you want to try a cowbell, DM me your address and Iāll send you the Cowbells that are even now kicking around my bike mess.)
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I do ride the tops sometimes, especially on longer rides. I am thinking that a bit of back sweep might be OK if the bars are getting wider anyways, but that is purely theoretical.
Also theoretical lately: longer rides.
I have had the same set of cowbells on different bikes for >10years
zipp xplr?
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Who makes those brass down tube shifter boss covers?