scrape all written Rob English content from the forums, train Robot English on his mannerisms,
deepfake rob english
Spam Cane Creek until they give in.
or until Rob asks us to stop and calls in another favor
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Another possible option:
Caveat: the inner diameter of the steerer tube needs to be greater than 23.5mm and less than 25mm.
yeah, Iāve used many of those and donāt care for themā I was thinking about something where the angle adjust was controlled by turning a dedicated screw or cam. arguably I guess I could try a one-bolt with a wedge clamp like Canyon or a transverse bolt like Ritchey
Which type of two bolt do you mean?
IME the bottom one is basically separate because one bolt controls the clamp force and then the angle is controlled by the other.
Looked at this too, consensus seems to be - conceptually - it might help, it might not but itās not going to hurt?
I have a 3T DĆ³rico which has the two bolts fore and aft like your second example. however in practice, tightening the aft bolt āenoughā affects the angle much more than the front bolt
you can see also how much of the aft bolt is exposed with the saddle levelish
it is also possible that Iām an idiot and have some part reversed
These have been very nice to use in my experience.
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I just ordered a Woodman post and it was fairly easy to get angle correct, and 5Nm clamp force didnāt move it at all.
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All seat post clamp designs are contractually obligated to suck in at least one dimension.
Ritchey side-bolt: holds well, but PITA to fit all the pieces back together when you inevitably loosen the bolt too far.
Specialized/Trek side bolt: seems to hold fine, but easy to get the clamp parts wedged on to the post and require a mallet to hammer pieces out in order to adjust anything.
Thomson: holds fine IME, but adjusting takes a while with alternating quarter turns on bolts. Also might crack if you torque too much?
Anything with grooves between the clamp and post head interface: hope you find a spot that works.
Enve: people that praise this design are up their own ass because it takes forever to adjust and the captive wedge and cradle parts do not exactly āglideā against the post, so you end up hoping you get everything in the ballpark with the prescribed torque values before you give up and swear off bikes for a few weeks.
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The Easton āISAā models separate fore-aft and angle adjustment. Iāve had one for a couple years and been happy with it. Seatposts ā Easton Cycling US
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Every seat post I own has a neutering bolt like that.
Im trying to reassemble a Stanās speed tuned 2.0 rear hub (novatec/joystick rebadge?) . I canāt get the lip on the freehub body past the seal on the hub despite applying as much force as I can muster and twisting. Everything is lubricated. Anyone have advice?
I think its some kind of labyrinth seal - do I use a dental pick to lift it on?
I couldnāt get it on after an hour of fiddling with a collection of dental picks. Its not readily apparent that I can remove the seal from the hub shell?
Itās not the pawls preventing movement right? The two novatec hubs I have require capturing the pawls with dental floss before the freehub will slide into the hub.
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think i might need to give up the jones dream momentarily.
you know, i have a boss, talks my dick off even though both of us are busy as shit. sometimes i feel like we are so far behind because of all the god damned talking. but he sure likes to talk!
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Im 98% sure not. In any case call me a Norwegian fur hunter cuz I killed that seal.
Thatās what I was saying about him having strangely few frames in stock. Either business is booming or something is amiss!!
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They went through a period of having nothing in stock after one of their sales in 2024, maybe early this year as well. But the amount of sales/discounts theyāve been having makes me wonder whatās going on there.
Honestly if I were smart Iād sell my medium LWB with the truss fork, but Iām not, so I probably wonāt.
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