would be uggo as hell
just want to use a traditional setup there, are the PDW fenders amenable to having the reacharound snipped off entirely, and being drilled for a simple tab that attaches behind the caliper (or to a sheldon nut)
If you run 19’s you shouldn’t have any problems. Except the 19’s.
That Time is asking for a fender split. Well, it’s pleading to not have fenders, but if you must the fender split would be good. Cramming a fender in the dry safety of the shop with “just enough” room is often a little irritating when sand and leaf city builds up in the 2mm of room.
PS- I want some of the PDW to play with. Seem like a nice Salmon alternative (which are a little narrow for my taste). No direct feedback other then to say that they are aluminum, and probably will handle a little mod well enough.
[quote=Rusty Piton][
Problem, meet solution:[/quote]
Danka. I like road bikes, and I like fenders. I also prefer easy set ups.
[quote=Eric Estlund]If you run 19’s you shouldn’t have any problems. Except the 19’s.
That Time is asking for a fender split. Well, it’s pleading to not have fenders, but if you must the fender split would be good. Cramming a fender in the dry safety of the shop with “just enough” room is often a little irritating when sand and leaf city builds up in the 2mm of room.
PS- I want some of the PDW to play with. Seem like a nice Salmon alternative (which are a little narrow for my taste). No direct feedback other then to say that they are aluminum, and probably will handle a little mod well enough.[/quote]
Where are you getting Salmons?
Seems like the biggest issue with those (other than the narrowness) is they’re not radiused much. Same concern with the crabon Berthouds, but add “insanely expensive”.
Just when I thought this bike couldn’t get any sexier.
Just when I thought this bike couldn’t get any sexier.[/quote]
I’m erect.
A friend hooked me up on a set. He knows the Salmon owner in France. The lack of radius doesn’t hurt them much considering their application (fitting frames that don’t really fit fenders). I believe you can only get them direct.
Gawd how did I not know about this bike either?
I am behind on these times man
I think I love you Eric, after I buy my house and sell off this bike mess I needs to be calling on your services
[quote=Eric Estlund]If you run 19’s you shouldn’t have any problems. Except the 19’s.
That Time is asking for a fender split. Well, it’s pleading to not have fenders, but if you must the fender split would be good. Cramming a fender in the dry safety of the shop with “just enough” room is often a little irritating when sand and leaf city builds up in the 2mm of room.[/quote]
The Time absolutely maxes out the short reach brakes
IIRC I could rattle an 8mm allen wrench around between the 23.5mm tire and the top of the arch
Switching to dual pivots would take up a few mm, but still there’s plenty of room to play with
The chainstays are around 420-425mm with no bridge, so there’s a ton of room there, might have to use an extra spacer between a strapped-on seattube boss and fender
Just when I thought this bike couldn’t get any sexier.[/quote]
I’m erect.[/quote]
[quote=Dirty Sanchez]
The chainstays are around 420-425mm with no bridge, so there’s a ton of room there, might have to use an extra spacer between a strapped-on seattube boss and fender[/quote]
My usual solution is an L-bracket of some sort mounted to the BB cable guide.
I’ll have to get some pics of Emily’s carpet fibre bike and it’s split-fender, zipties-and shims set up. Been solid for several years. I tried typing out a description but pics will be much easier.
[quote=Dirty Sanchez][quote=Eric Estlund]If you run 19’s you shouldn’t have any problems. Except the 19’s.
That Time is asking for a fender split. Well, it’s pleading to not have fenders, but if you must the fender split would be good. Cramming a fender in the dry safety of the shop with “just enough” room is often a little irritating when sand and leaf city builds up in the 2mm of room.[/quote]
The Time absolutely maxes out the short reach brakes
IIRC I could rattle an 8mm allen wrench around between the 23.5mm tire and the top of the arch
Switching to dual pivots would take up a few mm, but still there’s plenty of room to play with
The chainstays are around 420-425mm with no bridge, so there’s a ton of room there, might have to use an extra spacer between a strapped-on seattube boss and fender[/quote]
Cut off the stock hardware, drill a hole in the fender and bolt something like this on there:
Maybe?
Cool- more room to play.
You can also get all of the Honjo small parts if you don’t want to fab a bracket.
Fake chain stay bridge could be the PDW or Berthoud part, or even just a figure 8 twist in a big zip tie (depending on how clean you want it).
Was there a Minoura part that people were using for seat tube mounting? Maybe I’m wrong but I seem to recall someone mentioning it in another thread.
Minora makes all manner of accessory mounts for bars that work well for fender mounting.
That’s what I thought too. By the time you factor in shipping you might as well get the PDWs.
How about brake options for frames built for a 28s and fenders thing? For modern caliper brakes I’ve never run anything other than short reach. Do 57mm dual pivot calipers with decent pads give you most of it?
For going artisanal does it make sense to go with another brake style like cantis, mini vs or post mounted centerpulls to get the brakes out of the way?
For dual pivots (or centerpulls), mid reach brakes make the most sense for most people- either Shimano, Paul, Tektro, etc. Nothing wrong with cantilevers in their many flavors, but you don’t need them for 28/ fender from a clearance perspective. 25’s and fenders can be made to work (as in, not a PITA/ easy install) with short reach brakes IF everything was designed for it (as my bike above). For people on the fence I always suggest mid reach- gives you more options, and there are GREAT brakes in that realm. I have two on the docket now for Paul Racer M’s.
I really like the Paul brakes, and almost always go with the center mount- simply because you could replace it with a Tektro or Shimano if there is a road SNAFU in the middle or no-brake-land. The post mounts may be “better”, but the the center mounts are soooo goooood it really doesn’t matter. I like long term serviceability (again, even if it’s sort of redundant).
Post mounted Racer M’s sound real awesome. Not sure if they (and the artisanal frame to go with them) will be in the budget. Modding an existing frame and fork sol-style would be an option though I suppose.
Good 57mm reach dual pivots are really good. None of the Tektro models are quite right, the Shimano ones are really good, and the VO Grand Cru branded ones are surprisingly terrific.
The protruding dual-pivot arches do take up some space that you could be filling with something else, 33mm tires + fenders are hard with DPs but no trouble with a centerpull mounted on the same brake bridge.
Very interested to hear Eric’s opinion on the artisanal options, especially Mini-V vs. Paul Racer vs. Paul Racer M vs. Mafac vs. Dia-Compe
I like the Racer and M’s quite a bit- they are my default brakes in their reach range unless someone asks for dual pivots- for those I usually go Shimano.
I’ve had great luck (albeit with more limited experience) with the TRP mini’s- really nice option, and even better now that they offer a small selection for different levers.
I haven’t used the new Dia-Compes yet (Paul’s keep me happy), but I’m sure they are fine. I also haven’t built around vintage Mafacs (other then some crit cantis for my own use). I try to only build around currently available/ serviceable/ replaceable parts when possible, and so far none of my customers are so fetish based they won’t budge on that point. Old Mafacs work, but the new stuff is really nice.
While I have set up other bikes with much of this stuff, keep in mind most of my experience with “modern” retro options (ie- mid 2000’s on) has been on frames I’ve built to optimize said parts. Most of the kludgy retro madness happened in my shop days.
In my brake choice hierarchy I look at max tire size, fender use, mud clearance and power/ feel for the intended use. A short series of leading questions usually lands me on a winner fairly quickly.