Get me over from CX to MTB

Excellent![/quote]

[quote=b-roll]True confessions: I have broken my First Rule of bike shopping (always start with something cheap and used, figure out what really suits you, then swap things out over time).
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I’ve fallen into this trend in recent years. Never did this until lately and I think it has been a mistake.

All of my BMX and MTB were there right away. I spent 12 years picking out a carbon road bike and countless hours fixing steel ones with shit parts I didn’t want to upgrade. Could have been out enjoying myself on a nice frame, with the 10 speed Record group I wanted, and still bought the I bike have now.

Now I have another steel road bike I don’t want to upgrade instead of something like the coffee grinder or whatever Todd is rocking out in AZ.

No more. Getting something new come Spring. Maybe even a custom.

totally want to get into mountain bikes.

i gave zombie a shout for a bike… REAL QUESTION THOUGH: should i get a 650b hard tail vs. a 29ner hard tail? im about 5’7 and 120 lbs

Excellent![/quote][/quote]
Hell yeah!

[quote=killing time]totally want to get into mountain bikes.

i gave zombie a shout for a bike… REAL QUESTION THOUGH: should i get a 650b hard tail vs. a 29ner hard tail? im about 5’7 and 120 lbs[/quote]

650b IMO.

Ain’t never ridden a 650b before, but suspect you’d be happier going that way. Sure you’d do fine on a 29er, but think you’ll appreciate a more nimble bike.

Just my guess.

edit; shit, wonder if you could snag someone’s 26er race HT for cheap.

tc: I have no idea why people get custom steel (hardtail) mtn bikes. seems like the perfect application for cheap, light aluminum.

Thinking about it more - he’s the perfect size for an Ibis Mojo.

ill be back in this hunt in a year or two

I figure I’ll go 650b, higher bb and shorter cs so i can still get rad on it while still hitting all the singletrack around town. There is a mtb park 20km from my place, but you need a real bike (6+ inch fs and slack front end) to ride all teh double diamond stuff.

Good aluminum hardtails are super fun. My chameleon is fucking snappy and stiff as hell. Changes direction easily, is fun for street shit, strong enough to really beat on and never flexes ever. The flipside, of course, is that it is harsh as fuck and makes my body hurt like hell after a few hours.

Well, now that you’ve got the ritchey, you better build that shit up proper. Having that frame is pretty much a commitment to balleur life.

Sigh. I know. Another good reason to stick to rule #1.

Before I take my further build questions over to the DQ or ATMTB threads:

The lovely piece of steelwork now sitting in my living room is an all 1-1/8" headset affair. I am not finding anything for a 29er with 15mm thru-axle bits that comes with anything but a tapered steerer. I guess the reasoning would be that pairing the old standard headset with the beefier axle configuration is like swinging a wrecking ball with a jumprope, but I’m just guessing here. Anyone know any different?

IDK. Might make scoring a good used fork and wheels easier. Or if you get new wheels, make sure the hub is convertible.

Non tapered offerings in 1 1/8" 29er with 15mm axle
Fox Float 29
http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=bike&t=forks&p=32601&ref=filter
Fox Talas 29
http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=bike&t=forks&p=32701&ref=filter

Found nothing from XFusion or Marz

Looks like the SID and Revelation from Rockshox are available, but I cant really tell cuz their website sucks

I have a F29 in this config. There are a couple on pinkbike classifieds right now, might also give a clue as where to look if you want new.

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1371546/ (20mm axle)
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1407552/ (20mm axle)
http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/1436261/ (15mm axle)

Getting the picture. A vanishing combination either due to demand, not making engineering sense, or maybe both. It must not be too dumb of an idea, since even 2012 Reba forks with 15x100 cost 100 to 200 doll hairs more than the 2013 QR9. :colbert:

It might make more sense with tapered, but it still makes sense with standard 1 1/8".