[quote=cookietruck]some boat wheel bearing grease for pretty much everything
its light green and a little thinner than most wheel bearing grease[/quote]
That’s what my coop buys. Threads and bearings get this. Lighter weight stuff goes on cables.
I have a tube of some Motorex at home for bolts and stuff.
T9 for chain lube and frame savin.
Purple Loctite for spoke threads.
Headset - assuming threadless cartridge, marine grease between all surfaces
Bottom Bracket - marine grease on threads
Seatpost clamp - marine grease on binder bolt
Stem - steerer - nothing - unless carbon, then glycerin/silicon compound
Stem - bars - nothing - unless carbon, then glycerin/silicon compound
Seatpost - marine grease between post and frame - unless carbon, then glycerin/silicon compound, blue loctite on micro-adjust bolts, marine grease on single-bolt clamp, thin layer of marine grease on saddle rails - unless carbon, then nothing
Hubs - Phil on bearings and cone nut threads, marine grease on axle nut threads
QR skewers - marine grease on threads, chain lube on QR pivot
Pretty much any looseball bearings being repacked get Phil. Chain and any pivot points get T-9 on commuter bikes or Pro Link on racing bikes (T-9 repels salt better but can get gunky). Most threads get marine grease, except for RD hanger bolt, canti studs (where they thread into the frame/fork), BB shell cable guide bolt, and pedal cleat bolts which get blue loctite. Anything else that gets blue loctite is usually an adjuster screw or something on a component and the loctite is already there. EBBs often get teflon tape as well as grease on the threads.
I prefer spermaceti
I’m switching from Phils to Motorex across the board.
Oh, and blue Loctite on chainring bolts (and rotor bolts if not fresh)
I always do a light coat of grease on skewers, crank spindles, seatposts, and steel threadless steerers. Quill stems get a little more.
I’ll do a light coat on the bar clamp of non removable faceplate stems. I do the seat collar/st interface too. Light coat on freehub bodies.
Basically I spend a lot of time on this crap when I build a bike.
castrol marine grease. got a big tub with a toothbrush and it goes nigh on everywhere
and or whatever sample the sales reps are trying to hook us on this month.
I use an unlabeled tub of brown grease I got for cheap someplace long ago for most threads. Shimano special grease on all the cables, mineral oil for freehubs, and lithium grease (only because I have an injector on the tube) for bottle cage bolts or other hard to get into areas.
oil in hubs
talk to me about this
sounds like a stupid waste of time.
I don’t know why people do this. Less friction, maybe?
yeah pretty much, your pawl system never really sees dirt, is usually super easy to rebuild and suffers greatly with regards to rollout if you overpack em. I use finish line xc chain shit on all my pawl systems, king blood for the winter usually as its a bit heavier. Where engagement matters (ie trials) i knew guys that did dumb shit like run em dry or full of wd-40 to get it as fast as possible.
anyone know where I can pick up a nos tube of bullshot grease? wanna get my friend/mechanic a tube since he swears by it and cant find any
high park cycle if you can get in, place is a timewarp
Step it up and use some smegma atmo.
santorum
on shitted freehubs/freewheels I’ll hose 'em with liquid wrench to get the pawls back.
and then if I give a shit about the end user, phil’s tenacious to get something with some viscosity in there that’ll stick.
fwiw zipp actually recommends 10w-30 for their freehubs, easton recommends mineral oil. I’ve tried phil tenacious on a freehub service and it fels like complete shit, cleaned it out re did it with mineral oil and felt 1000x better.
Recently installed a BB that had locktite on the threads from the manufacturer. It didn’t feel right piling grease on top of that, so I just installed it without any additional stuff. Should I pull it out and put grease on it as well?