+1
I don’t even think the BB7 works with Centerloc, I could be wrong, but regardless I’m going with a 6 bolt pattern.
So as far as wheelsets are concerned, there seems to be an acceptable wheelset using TN719s for around $280 (after 32h, 6 bolt XT hubs are speced, along with black spokes, black nipples, and rim tape). Unless I’m mistaken it looks like the TN719s are pretty easy to convert to tubeless… I think I’ll just do that and call it good.
OK so ordered a TN719 to Shimano XT (front) and Shimano M529 rear, along with one of those fancy new (but a bit heavy) HG61 12x36 cassettes… why not, I’m fat and suck at climbing and apparently fat people like me have a tendency to strip their XT hubs when farting along in their 29er’s granny gear, if the interwebs are to be believed.
Also went with Kenda Nevegals (29 x 2.2) which are popular in SoCal and apparently have been run with good success tubeless (as have the TN719 rims) so I’ve got an upgrade path to tubeless open, or so it would seem.
Will have to sort out the stem, handlebars and the rest once I get it in front of me.
Stoked all, thanks for the help!!
you ordered rim tape for your wheels? not sure what they’re charging you on that site but just the other day when ordering wheels with kate, rim tape was foregone cuz cheaper at lbs.
I ended up ordering the wheels through Universal Cycles (so I could get the other stuff I needed and save on shipping). They include rim tape as part of their deal, and getting it built through them let me get those M529 hubs that supposedly don’t strip as easily as the XT hubs when run in a 29er application with Shimano’s new 12x36 cassette (I don’t know how much of that is FUD but whatever, I’m sure the hub will be more than good enough for my entirely modest needs).
I have ran Nevegals here in lower Michigan and they had great traction, but at a weight penalty as they are heavy. I have specialized fast traks on the geared hardtail. I have a 2.4 racing Ralph on the front and a maxxis ignitor 2.0 in the rear on the rigid ss, aka the reverse mullet (party in the front and business in the back). Even though I am not running any of them now I have always been a fan of the WTB 29 er tires, exiwolf, weirwolf, and the start of it all the nanoraptor. I have been at times know to hoard 29er tires just to have a bunch and try them out. Most of this was done years ago when the tire selection was limited. Now I would go broke just tryin to buy some of the most popular treads around.
Seeing what the other locals run is always a good start. Most of my tires are on the lighter and some what more fragile sidewalls. If I was doing and extended offroad ride with real distance I would err on the side of a slightly heavy tire.
Thanks Bigmatt! I know the tire thing is going to be totally experimentation, I figure just start with one of the flavors of the moment and go from there. I’m pretty pumped, this thing is gonna be fun!
Next up I’m gonna need tips on how to shred the gnar.
Did you get the fork through that auction you posted above? I am going to be in the market for said fork if I can sell this gary fisher frame (inquiry from York, PA!).
Yes, but there should be a few more - they had 5 on hand when I ordered. It seemed like an OK price, I’m sure I could’ve saved maybe $50 buying used but this way I don’t have to deal with a cut steerer (not that it would be that big of a deal) and if there’s something wrong with the seals or whatever, hopefully I can have better luck getting some warranty action.
Keep the saddle a little low, get your ass back, keep your elbows bent, let the bike float under you and hang on for dear life.
im afraid of and listen to heath
After trimming the inboard pad tab, BB7’s work fine with Centerlock. (I got new M965 XTR hubs and rotors for cheep on Ebay. Laced to Stan’s ZTR Olympic rims)
ah, i see.
that 12-36 cassette sounds cool. only seen them up to 34 in the past.
Yeah I figured 11x34 is probably fine but as the tire sizes get bigger (and the Bandersnatch has 3" clearance between the stays, so one could run some pretty big tires), it’s always nice in my experience to have a really low granny.
I’m gonna be all ghetto fabulous with my cheapass Dimension cyclocross cranks on this thing (5 hole / 110/74mm) but those cranks have stood up to a lot so far and have always been fine. Planning to run this as a 2x9 with a 36x24 w/bashguard in front and the 12x36 in rear. If that has too much overlap then I might go bigger on the big ring or smaller on the rear, whatever I can get to still shift successfully.
It almost goes without saying but there’s no way I should be considering platform pedals for a bike that will primarily be XC and mild singletrack oriented, right? I do have some Speedplay Frogs pedals and compatible shoes, although the idea of running some BMX or DH style platforms is kind of appealing.
Also, the Cane Creek S-3 won’t win me any popularity contests but its totally up to the task here, right? I’ve always gone with King headsets because that seems pretty safe, but I do have an S-3 on the Lemond and, in all honesty, it has worked just fine (aside from even fuglier graphics than a King).
personally i’ve come to feel comfortable enough on the mtb to ride clipless, though there are still moments when i feel slightly more attached to the bike than i’d like, but the tradeoff is that i have more control and won’t get bounced off on rough terrain…but i would try platforms and powergrips for easy foot down but with some security on bumps and more power for climbs. then clipless when/if you feel comfortable with that.
some people only use platforms, but in my experience, climbing sucks and while i’ve had situations where i’ve been glad to instantly plant a foot, i’ve also been displeased to have my feet unintentionally thrown off the pedal. that’s why i find powergrips a good compromise.
Your cross cranks might not clear the chain stays.
Well that’s the interesting thing, and I guess I’m glad I brought it up. I’d have to get a new 73mm shell BB to use my old cranks (my old BB is 68mm) and I was under the impression that I’d be able to clear the stays so long as I got a long enough spindle. The cranks are square taper which has options (in the form of the UN54 BB) up to at least 122mm, which should theoretically be enough to get them out there (I’m thinking…). And though I’d prefer to re-use what I’ve got rather than invest in more new parts, I do note that Shimano’s Deore M545 cranks with integrated BB and bashguard can be had for just over $100.
Long enough spindle to clear the stays might push your chain line out farther then acceptable. I’ve run into this fitting sq taper road cranks to a Trek 750 hybrid.
I’m not sure of this. It’s just a guess based on things I’ve tried.
There’s nothing wrong with the S3, and in fact I think you’ll find that most shop rats here would recommend it over a CK. Does the same job for half the cost with a better split ring design.