at my friends shop the head mechanic tightens the cog AGAINST the lockring. WTF? then when the HM isn’t looking dude will rotafix it…so their customers don’t die on the way home.
WTF is wrong with people? this is possibly the simplest mechanic work EVER and so many people fuck it up…
Yes, I will run a brake when I take a little time and figure out how to run the brake (I guess caliper) that came with the langster to the brake lever that was on my old conversion.
I’m using nitto rb-021 bullhorns that are too thick for the lever that came on the stock langster brakes.
A side note riding brakeless is fun and I’d do it forever if I weren’t afraid of chain malfunction. If someone could just reassure me on how to make sure 100% that a chain won’t break or hop off…
Send me that sticker you promised!
[quote=“duckwars”]
A side note riding brakeless is fun and I’d do it forever if I weren’t afraid of chain malfunction. If someone could just reassure me on how to make sure 100% that a chain won’t break or hop off…[/quote]
Yeah, it’s true, I break a chain twice, maybe three times a week. It’s scary stuf.
when you go back to get the lockring fixed buy brake leaver that fits your bars = brake problem solved. remember that if you lockring slips you don’t have brakes even if the chain doesn’t brake.
but hell going down a long hill with no brakes is how we all learn to ride!!! Right!!!
the trick is loctite.
if you’re having this much trouble already, chances are there’s some minor damage to it and you might as well break out the loctite. do what these guys said, but with loctite on the threads. it wont be going anywhere.
[quote=“Quinn8it”]It has been my experience that if the cog slips it is probably from using a cheap and slightly to thin cog! If the cog is to thin the lock ring wont contact it when tightened, and that leaves room for slipage.
It would be a pretty stupid crew at a bikeshop that couldnt just tighten the lockring, and even though the install/mash up hill/ re-tighten trick works, it shouldn’t be necessary.
Try a better cog or a spacer shim, any shop should have it.[/quote]
what are these spacer shims you speak of? are they threaded or do they just slide on? I’m after something similar to fix my chainline. I was considering using a bb lockring in the inside of the cog to do the same thing but, I am worried that might mean my cog wouldn’t engage enough threads. or leave enough room for the lockring for that matter.
[quote=“prismism”][quote=“Quinn8it”]It has been my experience that if the cog slips it is probably from using a cheap and slightly to thin cog! If the cog is to thin the lock ring wont contact it when tightened, and that leaves room for slipage.
It would be a pretty stupid crew at a bikeshop that couldnt just tighten the lockring, and even though the install/mash up hill/ re-tighten trick works, it shouldn’t be necessary.
Try a better cog or a spacer shim, any shop should have it.[/quote]
what are these spacer shims you speak of? are they threaded or do they just slide on? I’m after something similar to fix my chainline. I was considering using a bb lockring in the inside of the cog to do the same thing but, I am worried that might mean my cog wouldn’t engage enough threads. or leave enough room for the lockring for that matter.[/quote]
your cog shouldn’t need spacing out. and yes, it won’t be engaged on enough threads to trust. odds are your spindle is too long or your cranks aren’t track and set the chainline out too far.
Who makes the best sackwhip?
weld that shite. if that doesn’t work, flip the wheel and install the crank on the driver’s side.
[quote=“aek”][quote=“prismism”][quote=“Quinn8it”]It has been my experience that if the cog slips it is probably from using a cheap and slightly to thin cog! If the cog is to thin the lock ring wont contact it when tightened, and that leaves room for slipage.
It would be a pretty stupid crew at a bikeshop that couldnt just tighten the lockring, and even though the install/mash up hill/ re-tighten trick works, it shouldn’t be necessary.
Try a better cog or a spacer shim, any shop should have it.[/quote]
what are these spacer shims you speak of? are they threaded or do they just slide on? I’m after something similar to fix my chainline. I was considering using a bb lockring in the inside of the cog to do the same thing but, I am worried that might mean my cog wouldn’t engage enough threads. or leave enough room for the lockring for that matter.[/quote]
your cog shouldn’t need spacing out. and yes, it won’t be engaged on enough threads to trust. odds are your spindle is too long or your cranks aren’t track and set the chainline out too far.[/quote]
yeah, i know it shouldn’t need spacing. you’re right, my cranks are to far out, but this is because i need them out there to clear the chainstay.
so to fix it i could either space the cog (not such a good idea) get shorter cranks ($$$) or crimp my frame even more. to be honest its probably not really worth doing any of these because the chainline is only about 2mm out. its just something in the back of my mind bugging me because its not perfect.
Who makes the best sackwhip?[/quote]
The park tools sackwhip is probably the best, but I’ve never had a problem with my crank bros one.
ten says they stripped your hub and if it wasn’t stripped then, its stripped now :x