I fucked up my square taper cranks. Ideas?

So while going through a bb overhaul I accidentally crossthreaded the crank-puller onto the driveside crank and stripped the threads the fuck out. So how do I get the crank off now?

How many bikes do you break a year!?

Ride it gently. It’ll loosen up. Leave the bolt in loose so nothin craaazy happens.

edit: seated!

Your bikes hate you.

*Leg over bar skid should work.

*lol dont.

hang the cranks on your workshop (or living room) wall for added street cred.

wedge something in between the crank arm and the cup of the bb. I’ve used a big screwdriver. then lightly beat it with a hammer. Worked fine for me, crank arm was still usable and I didn’t find damage to the bb spindle either.

if you can position a couple pieces of wood or books so you can lay the frame across them and they sit through it resting against the chainring and lightly apply pressure. should allow it to work its way off.

here’s an idea: switch to isis.

This Septembers Bicycling describes the three diff spindles. Old style square taper, Shimano’s Octalink, and Isis’ ISIS? WTF?!?!?! I seriously wanted to write a letter

Hacksaw, torch, 5lb sledge, cursing, and beer. This should effectively ruin everything else on the bike, and it might even get the crankarm off.

Beer first.

I don’t understand. Is there something wrong with ISIS? It’s pretty common.

like was mentioned above, you can lever them off with different things. i managed to get my first set off without even knowing there was such a thing as a crank puller. it took me like 2 hours though, and a lot of WTF’s?

There is a tool specifically for this situation. I have always heard it referred to as a "pickle fork: because it does somewhat look like a big-ass two pronged fork. It fits between the crank and the bottombracket. The forked end is like two wedges. You fit it in the gap and hit it with a hammer a few times and the crank will usually pop right off.

Here is the down side… it WILL scar up the inner face of the crank where it fits over the spindle and it MAY deform the face of the bottom bracket shell. We save it for a final measure before cutting off a seized on crank.

Most bike shops that have been around a while or deal with low end bikes will probably have one of these around.

Hope this helps.

are the threads completely stripped?
i’ve gotten a few off where the first few threads were pulled out. i just screwed the puller all the way in then took a wrench and tightened it up nice and tight…then i used the tool.

if the puller is only screwed in a couple of turns it will usually pull those threads right out the crank arm. that’s always cool.

I’ve used the hammer and wedge method for a stripped crank before.
Mine was on there so good that multipul treatments of liquid wrench and increasingly severe hammering yielded no results. That’s when I pulled out the propane torch and torched that shit but good. I tapped the wedge lightly about two times and the crank clattered to the floor. The torch works because the crank is alu and the spindle is steel. when heated both expand, but the alu expand more rapidly than the steel so the crank gets looser on the spindle.

One of the clawed pulley removers for motors should do the trick. We have a couple here at the shop for removing pulleys from electric motors and they work great for stripped cranks. They don’t even require you to lever something against the frame.

[quote=“peedtm”]Ride it gently. It’ll loosen up. Leave the bolt in loose so nothin craaazy happens.

edit: seated![/quote]

edit: this will [possibly] work. :stuck_out_tongue:

That didn’t work for me, but my shit was waaaaay on there.