[quote=Fergie][quote=jamey][quote=Fergie][quote=catdrew f]we wrap most bars backwards as it looks a lot nicer without finish tape and you can get it tighter
Yes. I thought I was the only one. How do you avoid a lump near the stem where you need a double wrap to hold the tape on? I just live with it but is there a better way?[/quote][/quote]
That’s a nice picture, but I’m talking about wrapping the bars starting near the stem and then out to the bar ends.[/quote]
ha. Same way though. Just a diagonal cut. I usually cut a more acute angle than pictured so I can start with the tape already angled to wrap down the bar. No first or even half loop before I start moving down. I learned this at my lbs fwiw
Air up tires once every three months, regardless of whether it needs it or not.
Lock at the same spot every day. If spot is unavailable, go to different rack.
Change brake pads when visible sparks occur.
Replace tires when Groupon presents itself.
Clean drivetrain, brake tracks, and basically nothing else.
Wheelies often.
Beer often.
Judge others constantly, regardless of how hobo your own bike looks.
[quote=Jim Lite]Air up tires once every three months, regardless of whether it needs it or not.
Lock at the same spot every day. If spot is unavailable, go to different rack.
Change brake pads when visible sparks occur.
Replace tires when Groupon presents itself.
Clean drivetrain, brake tracks, and basically nothing else.
Wheelies often.
Beer often.
Judge others constantly, regardless of how hobo your own bike looks.[/quote]
Sir, I would like to subscribe to your urine.
reverse wrapped bars is awful with most tape ime. I always slide on the tape when switching positions and I always dog ear it.
shit pisses me off.
get color matched electrical tape. I don’t use black tape on white tape anymore.
How well does the double sided tape hold that extra piece on there?[/quote]
holds pretty good, just gotta cut to proper size, that’ll hold down most of the bartape surface. i use the duck branded doubleside tape.
And then what Eric and vt tallbike said. As far as bar wrapping goes, several methods work fine as long as you are meticulous about getting the sides even and here being no lumps or exposed shit. Single line of e-tape around the end, always black because matching tape doesn’t really match, especially once the bar tape is dirty.
Nitto tape is SO bad, which is weird given the quality of the rest of their stuff.
Overlap the e-tape by ~2mm at the edge of the wrap, pull really tight and it’ll fold down over the cut edge to the bar.[/quote]
Or just e-tape around the bar tape and don’t get any on the bar.
[quote=DDYTDY]Can read logo on front hub from cockpit. Hub logos lined up with valve stem hole. (sight though the hole and see the logo centered)
[/quote]
To get this right: Consider how your rim will eventually sit on your bike. Orient rim so that the text’s “down” is either towards the imaginary bike’s rear wheel, or towards the DS. Now, rotate it halfway in the direction the wheel turns so that the valve hole is up. The hole that is now forward is where your key spoke (the trailing spoke that is next to your valve stem) is going to come from. If your rim is “handed” the right-left orientation of that hole will determine whether your key spoke is ds or nds. If it isn’t, figure out whether your hub works best with nds or ds key spoke, and use that.
To find where the key spoke goes on your hub, and whether it ought to be ds or nds, orient the logo so that the text’s “down” is either towards the rear of your imaginary finished bike, or towards the ds. Now pretend you are going to lace radial and look carefully for the adjacent left-right pair of spoke holes in the hub that the logo is most “between”. If your rim has no “handedness”, the member of this pair that is farthest forward is going to be your key spoke if you lace radial.
If your rim is handed, well then you are going to have to figure out whether this handedness matches your hub’s ideal key spoke side. In the event of a mismatch, correct rim label orientation wins and you are going to have to move this pair of radial holes up or down. Pick whichever pair is closer to perfectly centered on the logo.
Now that you have your radial holes worked out if you’re gonna lace radial, go ahead; if you are going to do n-cross, then with the hub oriented as if you are looking at it from the rear of the bike. find the “high” (farther forward in the wheel’s direction of rotation) member of the pair. Now count n holes up the flange to find where the key spoke goes for n-cross. Similarly, count n holes down the flange from your “low” radial hole to find out where the leading spoke that will go in next to the valve is gonna go.
^^^ note to tarck: is this all right? i worked it out recently but have only built like six wheels.
![http://www.aspirevelotech.com/Articles/A10/Untitled-8.jpg[/img]MG](http://www.aspirevelotech.com/Articles/A10/Untitled-8.jpg%5B/img%5DMG){kind=link}
![http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v636/Mr_Penut/photo-119.jpg[/IMG][/quote]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v636/Mr_Penut/photo-119.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/quote%5D){kind=link}