Build em yoself, b!
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.htmlthe only tool i have for that is a flathead screwdriver haha
That’s all you need to build them, and then have them professional tensioned and trued, or buy one of those three-way spoke wrenches for $7 and do that job yourself. Having other people do stuff for you isn’t very punk.
dont have spokes either
i never said i was punk btw
Just rotafixed my sprocket by myself, very greasy and pleased. Going to have to do the screwdriver/hammer pound on the lockring, though, cause I don’t have a lockring tool.
[quote=“middleclass”]Thanks for the help, the cog and lockring I’m using now is surly. It’s what the guys at the shop recommended I get, since then I’ve really been babying it until last night I went on a pretty long ride and at one point while accelerating forward I felt slippage. Since I was so far from my house I offered no resistance until I got closer to home then I pulled an assload of skidz dogging it to see if it budged and it didn’t??? So I don’t know if it’s ok or not, I don’t know what my next move should be.
I make all smaller adjustments to the bike myself but for things like this I have to rely on a shop doing the work and being able to trust their good judgment.[/quote]
Surly’s are ok, so long as it’s the redesigned model (before 2005 they had problems). It is a fairly wide cog and when I used one on my phil hub, there were a few threads on the lockring that were not engaged. But phil has thick lockrings so there were plenty of threads engaged.
Every time I changed cogs or even loosened and tightened my lockring, I carried a lockring spanner with me for at least two days. Almost invariably I would feel a tiny slip when accelerating. I would get off right then and tighten the lockring down again. It would generally happen within 10 min. Tighten it again once and never deal with it again. This is similar in principal to the rotafix method, using the drivetrain to tighten the cog.
Moral of the story: if you don’t use rotafix, expect to have to tighten the ring again at least once.
I use anti-seize and then I put a serious amount of force on the chainwhip, haven’t had a cog slip, yet.
Any way to tell what era a Surly cog is from? Are the ones with the punched holes no good?
i think it’s a “no shit sherlock” but getting a good cog and lockring is very beneficial.
i had a fucked up hub with slightly damaged threads and i spent the little extra and paid 25 for a dura ace cog and lockring on my fucked up formula hubs and they’re solid. before with my cheapo cog i had to use loctite.
MissusTufnel has a thing for dead threaaads.
it’s… it’s alive!!!
And, hey. I’m new, I missed all the good stuff.
ZOMBIE THREAD
[quote=“MissusTufnel”]it’s… it’s alive!!!
And, hey. I’m new, I missed all the good stuff.[/quote]
FUCK YOU
i’ll be your friend missus tuffnel
[quote=“TimArchy”]
Surly’s are ok, so long as it’s the redesigned model (before 2005 they had problems). It is a fairly wide cog and when I used one on my phil hub, there were a few threads on the lockring that were not engaged. But phil has thick lockrings so there were plenty of threads engaged.
Every time I changed cogs or even loosened and tightened my lockring, I carried a lockring spanner with me for at least two days. Almost invariably I would feel a tiny slip when accelerating. I would get off right then and tighten the lockring down again. It would generally happen within 10 min. Tighten it again once and never deal with it again. This is similar in principal to the rotafix method, using the drivetrain to tighten the cog.
Moral of the story: if you don’t use rotafix, expect to have to tighten the ring again at least once.[/quote]
yea, that’s what i do. Just keep the tool with you for the next few days and you should be fine.