So I’ve heard that if you radially lace a DA, or Phil hub it voids the warranty and is prone to failure?
How does the lacing effect the structural integrity of the hub?
sheriff stars whoa!
(i have no idea)
i cant help read your posts with charlies voice.
charlie is the best character on always sunny…
i love the latest one where he writes a musical…
As far as I know, Phil recently changed their warranty policy so that radially lacing a front, high flange Phil hub no longer voids the warranty. Dura Ace (or other NJS hubs like Suzue Pro Max) and certain Campy hubs, like sheriff stars, shouldn’t really be laced radially because they can’t handle the something or other… 
[edit] Don’t take my word for it on the Phils. Drop them a line here: service@philwood.com
[edit2] I know torque load only matters to the rear. I got confused.
torque load is virtually non-existent on fronts w/ a rim brake. What they aren’t tested to handle is the load of the spoke exiting perpendicular to the crown of the flange, instead of nearly parallel as a 3x spoke does.
What he said.
This. I wouldn’t worry about it on quality hubs with double butted spokes. (go hight spoke count too.)
I laced a Surly HF front hub radially. Been riding it for two years…so far so good.
However, I recommend 1x. It looks about like radial (perhaps better), but it gives the spokes a slight angle which reduces the radial load on the hub flange. I’m doubt that 1x will void the warrantee of any hub. Like radial, with 1x you can lace the wheel with the spoke heads in the same direction.
For radial lacing, elbows out is laterally stiffer and likely reduces the possibility of the flange separating. I really wouldn’t hesitate to radial lace any decent front wheel intended for use on the road.
Even though it will void the warranty on some hubs it’s about covering there selves just in case. A high quality hub should be strong enough to handle it. They just haven’t tested it or decided there was a slightly higher chance of failing so the warranty goes away if you do. on hubs that are designed for radial lacing they ad more material to the flange to make sure it’s strong enough. As far as the NJS thing goes, I don’t think your allowed to lace them radial, I think they have to be three or four cross. So they have no reason to design them to be stronger.
Some road hubs (intended for radial lacing) are built with a lip around the outside of the flange, so that you are forced to build it with the elbows in. Elbows out is stiffer but elbows in is apparently more aero. I’ve tried both…the differences are extremely minor.
^ on my current wheel I alternated =) I have no good reason why. it looks cool as it spins in the light.
Sheldon did some testing. I’m not sure that 13% greater lateral stiffness is very useful, though. IMHO, elbows in looks cleaner.
Structurally, that is probably fine. But its certainly less aero because the spokes aren’t perfectly drafting each other.