Considering you had to custom-machine your own axle, I don’t consider it a “no-issue”.
[quote=bward1028]
I probably should be on a 54 or so.
Well, I wanted to pick up that Trek Y22 a little while ago because I’ve always wanted to try mountain biking. Anything that can do double-duty is twice as good.
Well, I wanted to pick up that Trek Y22 a little while ago because I’ve always wanted to try mountain biking. Anything that can do double-duty is twice as good.[/quote]
SingleSpeed. Seriously, on the trail if you decide to give MTB a shot, you will have plenty to worry about besides where your cranks are and other nonsense. Mountain biking involves a fair amount of coasting if you are doing it right. Fixed MTB is more of an “expert i want to make riding my challenging” kind of riding. Rather, fixed MTB is for crazy people who don’t like their shins.
Mine come from a friend-machinist. All it is 20mm alu rod of appropriate length with a tapped holes. Additionally, you need spacers ( cut-off handlebars 22mm OD or 1’’ carbon steerers ~20mm ID are excellent candidates) and bolts.
Posted too many times:
That’s a little more than a $20 no-issue, but doable. I’ll have to pick up a 20mm hub and check it out.
Halbritt,
It was $27 for two anodized axles ( one 123mm long the other 132mm long) and it was no issue. I do not believe you’d have to pay more for it in the US. Spacers, as I said, were handlebars’ and steerer cutouts. I have 3 wheels like this (two identical bloodline x ambrosio for front and rear on my winter bike and a light one soul-kozak x zipp for the fast one). With these axles, I can run these wheels on all my bikes, regardless of the spacing ranging from 120 to 135 and regardless of the kind of dropouts.
Tim, I might write a howto one of these days if there is an interest.
Just get whatever frame you like despite dropouts, get a SS tensioner and rock it SS.
Happy times. Very fun happy times.
[quote=vobopl]Halbritt,
It was $27 for two anodized axles ( one 123mm long the other 132mm long) and it was no issue. I do not believe you’d have to pay more for it in the US. Spacers, as I said, were handlebars’ and steerer cutouts. I have 3 wheels like this (two identical bloodline x ambrosio for front and rear on my winter bike and a light one soul-kozak x zipp for the fast one). With these axles, I can run these wheels on all my bikes, regardless of the spacing ranging from 120 to 135 and regardless of the kind of dropouts.
Tim, I might write a howto one of these days if there is an interest.[/quote]
Dude, there’s an interest, there’s a serious fucking interest.
[quote=NitroPye]
Mountain biking involves a fair amount of coasting if you are doing it right. Fixed MTB is more of an “expert i want to make riding my challenging” kind of riding. Rather, fixed MTB is for crazy people who don’t like their shins.[/quote]
It all depends on the kind of trails. My first MTB was fixed. I was riding mostly tight, rolling singletrack. It wasn’t difficult to keep up with my two friends on single speeds (who had been riding for years). But the rides were only an hour or so long and there weren’t any major climbs or steep descents (going down was the hardest part). There was definitely some stuff that they did that I couldn’t touch though. Like climbing and descending switchbacks. If I’d had the chance to get into it more, I’d have gotten a freewheel to have the option.
[quote=Tbirdbassist]Trek 800.
[/quote]
i used to have one of those. my dad rides it now. sometimes. he sold my record collection, i should demand that bike from him.
but for a snow bike, low end could be just a-okay.
[quote=TimArchy][quote=NitroPye]
Mountain biking involves a fair amount of coasting if you are doing it right. Fixed MTB is more of an “expert i want to make riding my challenging” kind of riding. Rather, fixed MTB is for crazy people who don’t like their shins.[/quote]
It all depends on the kind of trails. My first MTB was fixed. I was riding mostly tight, rolling singletrack. It wasn’t difficult to keep up with my two friends on single speeds (who had been riding for years). But the rides were only an hour or so long and there weren’t any major climbs or steep descents (going down was the hardest part). There was definitely some stuff that they did that I couldn’t touch though. Like climbing and descending switchbacks. If I’d had the chance to get into it more, I’d have gotten a freewheel to have the option.[/quote]
why i went with a surly 135mm spaced flip flop hub. the only affordable fixed/free in that spacing.
I got a 4130 sparkly green panasonic I ran ss/fixed locally for 30 bucks (frame fork cranks headset) a year or so ago
otherwise, surly
more pics, some info in the captions writeup soon (hopefully)[/quote]
Where do I get the axle? Everything else makes perfect sense. However, if I have to turn a billet of aluminum, that’s not going to yield lightweight results.
more pics, some info in the captions writeup soon (hopefully)[/quote]
Where do I get the axle? Everything else makes perfect sense. However, if I have to turn a billet of aluminum, that’s not going to yield lightweight results.[/quote]
Let me see if Maciek, the manufacturer of Mack hubs, who made mine, would be willing to make some more. About the weight - the solid aluminum axle with the single 7mm hole taped to accept 8mm bolts is something like 30% heavier than the equivalent 10mm steel one, with the additional drillings you see it is within 3% of the steel.
It even has fender mounts! Awesome.
edit - I could buy this if I sell my trispoke.
hmm.
Do it! Also, sorry for diverting your thread. I’m really interested in that hub.
Full rigid 29’ers are the way to go SS. You don’t get suspension bob when standing yet the wheels roll over things that would stall a 26er.
also
+1
My whole beef with the 29ers is Im a clutz and 26 inch wheels are easier for me to manage 
29er
I haven’t ridden it yet.
