Is there a road bike thread? If so, Links? used search with no success.
If none exists, here are my questions:
Sizing- should I go with the same sizing as my track bike?
group- what is a pretty good starter group. I never rode road and come from a MTB background. So, which group is equivalent to XT I don’t think I need a XTR equivalent group although I would appreciate a LITE bike.
anything else I should know.
Also, eat a jar full of DICKS!
-jus always wanted to say that
XTR = Dura-Ace = Red = Super Record
XT = Ultegra = Force = Record?
LX = 105 = Rival = Chorus?
Currently I think Sram has the best bang for the buck. But you can potentially find some good deals on Dura-Ace 7800 as the new 7900 is out now (its crappy tho).
Sizing should be similar but perhaps not exact to your track bike depending on if it is in fact “track geometry”
I raced on a full 105 triple group (converted to a double) and using FSA Team Pro crankset for say… 8 years? Worked great. I loved its durability. It was 9-speed. I recommend.
Currently riding with Red. Love it. LOVE IT.
Also come from an MTB background. So as to say… I feel your pain.
idk if rival is really comparable to 105, except for its place on both companies’ group hierarchies. although i know nothing of the latest 105.
thx for the response. I’m sure I can look it up online but are the weight difference between the 105s and Ultegra substantial. I currently moved to an area where I can ride my Track (reminton) bike more frequently and love its light weight so want a group that will help keep the weight down without blowing out the bank acct of course.
Also, for frames, are older steel frames okay? I really do not like aluminum. Should I be looking at newer frames?
OR does it jus come down to frame weight and geo.
sorry for the noob Q’s but I truly am not in my element when discussing road bikes/parts
right meow if i was getting a new road bike i’d probably go in this direction
full rival, alum frame. their wheels are supposed to be quite nice for what they are, and customer service has a great rep
what i actually ride is steel, a custom frame probably 15 years old from a california builder. also it’s set up with a 7spd, DT shifter group, so i’m not the go-to guy for modern road bike advice
also if you’re concerned with weight, go SRAM. i think the difference between their “low end” stuff (rival) and non-carbon dura ace is only like 80 grams for a complete group
Go with high quality steel from the late 80s or any time in the 90s. There are plenty of deals to be had.
also, if you don’t care about builder name or bike color or that crap, ebay can really hook you up with nice old steel. what size do you ride?
I wouldn’t go by the size listed and I certainly wouldn’t just buy the same size as a track frame. Test ride if you can, if you can’t be able to read the geometry/measurements.
105/Veloce/Rival are all really nice groups and won’t break the bank.
thx for the great info. Right now my seat tube c-t on my Track frame is 21 inches/ 53.5 centi. I could prolly go up to about 54/54.5 with no issues but it currently rides perfectly and comfortably.
Yeah my chart refers to heirarchy, not comparability.
Sram is EASILY the best price to weight ratio. I think the new 2009 force is lighter than DA7800.
The weight between 105 and ultegra is substantial. But you’ll need to calculate all the exact weights from manufacturers sites.
I know going from 105 9speed to Red 10speed, there was a difference of a pound in the components alone.
With 105 tho I was able to easily build a sub 18lb setup with clinchers. (Original Rolf Vector Pros with DT hugis)
My bike is sub 15lbs now. Shh… dont tell.
again, noob Q but what is a pretty decent weight road bike?
Depends on what you are after, but I am happy sub 20lbs.
yeah… don’t go by weight thats redic.
Just buy a frame that you LOVE and put on some components that work and won’t annoy you. You can race anything and thats the only place weight “matters”
we have a dude on our team racing a steel trek 6 speed. He wins lots. (as long as it isn’t a sprint finish)
Yeah, I like steel and will be looking for that.
threads that shouldn’t exist.
Sub 20lb is pretty standard with a generic alu frame, carbon and 105. Stock wheels are generally anchors, if you get to itchin…
853 and 953 are better than low-end aluminum. Similarly, good aluminum is better than low-end carbon. A good carbon fork is a must, though. And carbon seatstays help a lot too.
My road bike has a combo of Ultegra and 105 parts, with FSA cranks. I’m happy with it. Although if you get 105 brifters and you’re running two rings make sure the left brifter says “double” on it. For the past two years Shimano has been putting triple brifters with double cranksets and they break after a few miles. The 2010 stuff is fine, though.
There are quite a few good affordable completes out there with decent groupsets, that only require upgrading the wheelset (and saddle and pedals of course).
I’ve never had a bike under 20lbs. A result of riding large, inexpensive bikes. I could do it with my giant by changing the wheels or crank, which I will do eventually. Anything under 22 or so can be fun. Over that, and you really start to feel it. If you can get under 20, good on ya, but don’t spend an extra $500 to lose that last 1/2 pound.