SHARTQ'S


#44941

Brake pad moving


#44942

Why?

My Kings are basically a passive-aggressive bell. Let 'em whirr, and people move out of the bike path.

But, to be serious, those Onyx hubs have taken over high-end fat biking. They have surpassed DT Swiss in the reliability department, which is saying a HELL of a lot. They are the most expensive and the best.

The only reason I don’t buy them any more is because DT Swiss 350’s have such bang/buck, ease of maintenance, and parts availability. Compared to an Onyx they feel sloppy, but they’ve been as bombproof as my Kings, with less maintenance.


#44943

[quote=iwillbe][quote=mander][quote=iwillbe][quote=eric_ssucks]So, think of your upper body as being cantilevered off your lower body. Reducing hand pressure is done by moving the saddle back and down a little. And maybe moving the bars forward and down.

Also, holy shit yoga, pilates, PiYo™, squats anything to build up core strength helps immensely.[/quote]

I’d mess with bar position long before I’d try to address upper body issues with saddle position.[/quote]

I respectfully disagree. Moving the saddle does the most with the body’s center of mass, and so imo is the place to start when weight is distributed where it isn’t wanted. I have found that moving my hands a cm or two has effects proportional to moving the saddle by millimeters.

so yeah, tilted back, lowered and moved back is a good idea if upper body has been a problem.

also, planks are great for back pain issues related to cycling.[/quote]

For a totally new setup, I agree. I was thinking about the wrong case - addressing new discomfort with an existing bike. I’m loath to mess with my saddle because I know pretty exactly what a good pedal stroke feels like, from hip flexors to ankles; changing it tends to set off a chain of problems.[/quote]

Sounds like we are on the same page. Well i think recumbentist is a special case. In related news, recently i thought id try a few mm forward saddle position and it’s been complicated dealing with all the fallout.


#44944

Paging Fred and anyone that might have advice for this. Toying with the idea of asking my ‘learning as they go’ cargo bike building friends if they’d fabricate some sort of permanent rack for the Sundeal. I’m guessing it would have to be something that bolts to/around the headtube/toptube rather than welded right to the alu frame? I’ll probably just say hey, feel like taking on a weird project? Do whatever. But if y’all have any ideas, I’d love to hear em.


#44945

Fred’s idea of repurposing the Brompton front carrier block seemed worth looking into

EDIT: at least one other person tried it :slight_smile:


#44946

Is it possible to modify a 27.2 seatpost (specifically VO) to fit into a 26.8 seat hole?

Alternatively where can I find a 26.8 chair pole with 25mm of setback?


#44947

[quote=ThurberMingus]Is it possible to modify a 27.2 seatpost (specifically VO) to fit into a 26.8 seat hole?

Alternatively where can I find a 26.8 chair pole with 25mm of setback?[/quote]

Did your google search not turn up the SunLite available via Niagra Cycles? Seems like what you’re looking for.


#44948

Whoopsie I meant like 35mm. That’s what the VO post has right? I need hella setback is the bottom line.


#44949

27.2->26.8 is 0.2mm, I suspect the VO post isn’t right on the minimum wall thickness that taking that much off will compromise it’s fitness for purpose. (Compare it to a few other posts both weenie and not)

Can you get a lathebro to turn it down? (for MyFirstFixie I had a cheap post skimmed down a similar amount, 26.8 to 26.2 for a super course mkii IIRC)


#44950

I would not fuck with turning a post down. You’d be far better off reaming the seat tube.


#44951

https://www.ebay.com/i/132621466988


#44952

Damn


#44953

Raise your hand if you knew what part this was linking to before you clicked on it.


#44954

Raise your hand if you knew what part this was linking to before you clicked on it.[/quote]

Is it that redonk seatpost with the QR for sliding the saddle clamp waaaaaaaaaay back? Only ever seen one IRL that tehschkott had.

Edit: Nailed it!


#44955

So reaming a seat tube isn’t as sketchy as reverse-reaming a seatpost? I was thinking a few tenths of an mm wouldn’t be a big deal then I thought about tube-butting profiles and suddenly that number (0.4mm?) seemed a lot bigger.


#44956

[quote=ThurberMingus]Is it possible to modify a 27.2 seatpost (specifically VO) to fit into a 26.8 seat hole?

Alternatively where can I find a 26.8 chair pole with 25mm of setback?[/quote]
https://www.amazon.com/Kalloy-Seatpost-26-8-350mm-Silver/dp/B018HH8BEO

24mm setback but ya know

or Q #ST6395 if you want to patronize your LBS


#44957

You could ream it out if the seat tube is fairly thick to begin. It will take forever though. If you have a lathe, turning down a cheap, thickwall chairpole would take less time I would think.


#44958

If it was a beater bike, I might kludge up a way to clamp the chairpole in a drill and spin&sand down w/sandpaper until I can jam it into the frame.
If it’s not a beater, buy the right size chairpole. I don’t think I would fuck with the frame.


#44959

the VO post has a very ovalized inner diameter, don’t fuck with that


#44960

my first foray into disc brakes is not going well; the front brake shudders and clicks like a motherfucker on my fairdale. it’s so bad I don’t even want to ride the bike anymore

I’ve had the post mounts on the fork chased to make sure they’re good, no dice. had a shop re-install brake to make sure aligmnent’s OK, no dice. swapped and cleaned front and rear rotors, sanded pads, and re-bedded them, no dice.

they’re trp spyres if that matters