shudder seems like a fork issue to me. what kind of click? are you using stock pads? try jagwire sintered.


i replaced the stock pads with these

the clicking is like the edges of the holes in the rotor are catching on the pads. the shudder is only under quite a bit of load, but still irritating as all get out and certainly not confidence inspiring


which rotors?


I had the same issue sometimes with Spyres until the remaining 60% of the stock pads wore away to the backing plate in one single rainy ride and i replaced them with G07ti pads that were ground down at the edges to fit the caliper better than stock pads (got the idea from fred). I’ve also had this issue when running the caliper at a bit of an angle because I welded my iso tab a little crooked. I think the edge of the pad material would sometimes jam a bit into the larger holes on my Shimano rotors. Spyres kinda suck tbh. They look nicer than most mechanical calipers and the adjustment is easy with the 3mm key, but the dual pad engagement is a gimmick, the mechanical advantage isn’t right, making them spongy, the pad fit sucks and they use a dumb tall pad standard, the stock pad compound is water soluble, and the individual pad adjustment backs itself out making your brakes looser if you cycle them enough. Not regretting going to Hylex brakes.


Stock spyre rotors.

Dunno, guess I could try Hayes CX? Bummed that $75 or so tossed at the problem in shop labor, files, and new pads put me back at square one.

I’ve also contaminated the same damn rotor/pads 3 different times. Can sweat do that?


strongly agree with all of this


The good news is that if you treat the files properly, they ought to last you many many years, or possibly an entire lifetime.


Those Hayes mech brakes will solve all your problems.


the cx expert is the brake everyone likes right?


Or the shimano CX-77. Lighter than all the other cable discs without resorting to aluminium/ti hardware.

The CX Pro is lighter than the expert, with some material removed and hardware swapped from the expert. The comp is the base model.


But they function identically. I say this all the time, but the Hayes CX is the most underrated mech disk brake on the market.


Any Hayes mech brake just works. I got the base CXs and paid like $20 for them on eBay and they are the least finicky brakes I’ve ever had.


Yeah, they’re great. Just use compressionless housing and you’re set.


[quote=ThurberMingus]Is it possible to modify a 27.2 seatpost (specifically VO) to fit into a 26.8 seat hole?

Alternatively where can I find a 26.8 chair pole with 25mm of setback?[/quote]

I might have one, it’s a vintage easton, can’t find a picture of it online. I will check how much setback.
I also have a 35mm+ setback Tioga Revolver seat post, but it is 27.0, might work if you are OK with shaving it down, plenty of wall thickness.

I’m not positive if this (slightly newer type than mine) vintage Easton EA70 style was ever made in 26.8, but worth keeping and eye out for:


First time operating the thru axle in my girlfriends bike and this c clip went flying. It will not stay put (either was pre-bent or bent when it popped off). The system seems to work regardless: you just have to press the expanding part with your finger to get it to collapse. Seems fine? Anyone else ever encounter this weird thru axle system?


god damn it I need to move this to the “bike parts that exist but wish they didn’t” thread


Yeah, that axel is weird. It’s got a double threading system that can get out of whack in such a way where the qr handle will be tight but the wheel sort of loose in the fork. Not great.


yeah I think that’s how the c clip popped out to begin with. I was expecting a regular thru axle, not paying attention, and pop


Yup. Better than Spyres, (road) BB7s, and Klampers.


thanks or all of the helpful insight guys, much appreciated!