tarckee's 29er build dumb question solthread

I’m starting a new thread because I don’t want to shit up Dumb Questions or the MTB thread and people can more easily ignore it because I’m going to asking some pretty dumbass questions here.

I’m building up the L Zion 737 (non-EBB) I got from jimmythefly as a fully rigid geared bike. If I go squishy later I’m going to have a lot more dumbass questions.

The goal is a budget-ish build that’s solid, performs well, is fairly low maintenance, and isn’t a total pig in the weight department.

I will break up my dumb questions for clarity and to make quoting less sucky.

The current plan is to go tubeless for ride quality, flat protection, and a little weight savings. I already have some DT Swiss/Hugi 6 bolt hubs so I’m planning to lace them to Stan’s Arch as that seems to be the recommended XC rim on the Stan’s site.

So, first dumb questions are tubeless related. It looks like the only kits Stan’s offers are for non-tubeless specific (other people’s) rims. So confused. Can I use one of these for the Arch 29" rims. If so, which? If not and I have to buy stuff individually what do I want to use, rim strips or tape and a separate valve stem?

You don’t need the rubber rim strips for the stan’s rims, just the yellow tape and presta valves. Just clean the rim with rubbing alcohol, put on a layer of yellow tape and stick the valves in. Then you’re ready to mount tires.

Cool. Ok. One down.

Next DQ is brake related. Looking at BB7s coz don’t have budget for balleur hydros and I’m already a little familiar with them as I’m running the road version on my cross bike.

I’m pretty set on flat or riser bars for this build as the frame is going to be on the small side for me, so getting dirt drops up to saddle level would require an epic bonerstem or even a bonerstem x rustystack collab. But, that said would it be jackass or even doable to run the road version with old school levers built for cantis to give myself the option of brifters/drops down the road? If the performance would suffer could this be mitigated by bigger rotor(s)?

This thread is annoying enough without double posts. Sorry.

You can get modern short pull flat bar levers. I have a set of shimano ones on my moser. If you’re going to go cabled there’s no real reason not to if you even think you might want to go drop in the future.

I’ve made some Sun UFO and Equalizer rims tubless wiff yello tap as well az Stan’z rimz

Also, for weightweenieness, I’ve never run UST tires. I’ve had good luck with Stans, Schwalbe, Michelin and Specialized non UST with sealant.

I can get in on this thread?

Not 29er, but tubeless related. I bought a Mavic 819/XT wheelset yesterday, which is a UST rim, and I’m planning on running a UST tire. Anyways, I know that I don’t NEED to run sealant, but I’m thinking I’m still going to want to because of small punctures that might happen?

nvm

[quote=tarckeemoon]
Next DQ is brake related. Looking at BB7s coz don’t have budget for balleur hydros and I’m already a little familiar with them as I’m running the road version on my cross bike.
But, that said would it be jackass or even doable to run the road version with old school levers built for cantis to give myself the option of brifters/drops down the road? If the performance would suffer could this be mitigated by bigger rotor(s)?[/quote]

What you want to do is run the mountain BB7s with regular levers. Then if you go drops and brifterz use a travel-agent to change the cable pull for you. Reports from friends (and strangers) say that regular drop levers+travel agent+bb7 mountain > drop levers+bb7 road. My experience is that my mountain bb7s with flat bar levers are quite superior to road bb7s with drop-bar levers, but that’s not really and apples/apples comparison.

I am inferring that to also mean mountain bb7s and appropriate mountain levers are better than bb7 roads and canti mountain levers, but perhaps the difference isn’t as noticable in a strictly flatbar vs. flatbar comparo.

I’ve done travel agent + bb7 mountain & drops and it seriously sucked.

Sucked more/less than bb7 roads and the same drop levers?

I’ve always taken it on faith that travel agents are teh suck but I have no personal experience with them.

I’ve used road BB7s with two different drop levers (Rival and SCR-5). Works plenty well for cross and modulation is ok, but raw power might be a little lacking. Hence my related DQ about rotors.

Maybe motorbacon can chime in here. He runs brifters and BB7s on his setup, but I don’t know which.

Didn’t use the same drop lever. It was some tektro + travel agent vs. sram force w/ bb7 road. the force + bb7 road is awesome the the other setup didn’t even come close to locking up.

Yeah, rotor size gets you more power for sure, but exacerbates issues if the pads need to be set very close.

Edit@ VTtallbike Thanks, good to know. That contradicts the experience of someone else who’s opinion and skills I respect, guess I need to do some experimenting.

What do you mean by this?

[quote=jamey]I can get in on this thread?

Not 29er, but tubeless related. I bought a Mavic 819/XT wheelset yesterday, which is a UST rim, and I’m planning on running a UST tire. Anyways, I know that I don’t NEED to run sealant, but I’m thinking I’m still going to want to because of small punctures that might happen?[/quote]

Yeah, you’re better off running a small amount of sealant, just to secure the edges. Plus it will help the bead slide into the seat a little easier. That’s what I did on the Mavic wheels I rode last summer.

It’s possible the lever was partly to blame but I kind of doubt it. i tried re setting up the travel agent multiple times with no real difference in performance. if you set up the roads properly they feel just like the mtn version.

Always a good idea to mount tires with a tube first and run them to about 60psi to get the basetape fully set on the rim. Then take the tubes out and do the stem/sealant thing.

Just sack up an pay the extra $$$ for SLX. BB7 w/rotor and no lever is $80, SLX w/o rotor is $125. You will thank me later.

There is a reason only a select few people use dirt drops. They are the mustache bars of the trail… the sortof look cool and earn mega Fred points but just do it right goddamnit.

For rotors 180/160 is standard on 29ers for a reason.

Also I have no idea what the trails are like around your area but around here we pretty much sell the same two tire setups to 99% of our customers. Ignitor/crossmark and racing ralph/racing ralph. The former lasts longer, the latter is lighter, faster, and softer but wears fast.

Also as long as you are running Maxxis or Schwalbe you will get good results with tubeless regardless if you are using a tire that is designed specifically for tubeless or not. Not once have we had an issue with either brand in any of their 29" tires. UST is pretty much just a 26" thing and “tubeless ready” just means they are using rubber compounds that don’t get fucked up by sealant (KENDA!) or have slightly beefed up sidewalls.