the look out honey coz im usin technology aka the garmin/powertap/srm thread

[quote=chazzwazzer][quote=aerobear]wahoo seems to have a cadence issue in general. do you see a cadence of 254? (guessing its a range of 0-255 due to being 8-bit). have seen that only in wahoo’s app and on their head units.

pretty much any head unit will take 2-5 seconds to pick up. in general it is not missing data. if you just watch it, there should be an equal delay to when it stops showing data when you start coasting.

whether missing data is in the file or not - depends on the unit. i’m unsure on wahoo. with ant+, each data packet overlaps by a few seconds (it takes a few seconds for accumulated torque counts to roll over and it tracks rotations based on event count, which prevents it from seeing a gap in data and sudden high count as a spike), so something 1-3 seconds long can be backfilled when it picks up another packet. there older units didn’t have the processing power to do this, but everything 810 and newer does. the stages head unit does the same thing. i ride inside occasionally in a workout room full of sensors (stationary bikes with power, kickrs that are blasting out ant+ whenever plugged in, other people riding with HR straps, etc) and it causes a lot of intereference, but always end up with 100% of the data in the file, just some drops here and there on teh display. kind of unavoidable in that kind of environment.[/quote]

Never seen a cadence that high, no. Mostly I’ll be pedaling at a cadence I know is as steady as I can go (indoors), and it’ll jump 5-10 rpm. The average works out of course but I’ll watch it bounce and know I didn’t go from 98 to 105 to 99 in the space of five strokes. I’m curious to add my Garmin cadence sensor back in the mix, at some point.

I’ll watch for the drop off delay and check my files eventually. Thanks for suggesting that and filling us in the packet timing stuff, that’s good to know. I only started with this stuff in November and mostly just hand off files to my coach.[/quote]

It could be a rounding error of some kind on the part of the wahoo then… In my own experience that cadence data is super reliable from the accelerator in normal usage (i.e. not rowdy mtbing or something that gets super bumpy or extremely slow/high torque stuff like a standing start). As kind of mentioned, watts and rpms aren’t actually calculated by the meter, but sent out as event count and event time and accumulated torque is send along side of that, so the head unit itself makes that into power and rpm by figuring out how much torque was accumulated between events and how fast the event was. Downside is that if your cadence values seem off, seems suspicious on the power since torque is multiplied by rpm, but you’re probably right that it ends up averaged out.

Not sure what wahoo’s priority is set to, but on a Garmin it’s actually impossible to record a cadence sensor’s data on top of a power meter. It’ll only record the cadence from the power meter (unless it’s a hub/power tap).

DQ: I have a Lemond Revolution trainer and a Garmin head unit, and no power, cadence, HR, or speed sensors at all. I want to Zwift as cheaply as possible.

  • Speed sensors are a no-go because the Revolution effectively replaces the rear wheel.
  • A Stages powermeter would obviously be the best (but priciest) solution.
  • Should I get the Wahoo BT/ANT+ combo cadence sensor and be done with it?

So, like, get a power meter and a BTLE dongle (or a smartphone that will do a BTLE bridge to your compy), and get your dingle dongled with Zwifty goodness. Your trainer might do speed/cadence, in which case you don’t really need a power meter. A power meter will do cadence, unless it’s a wheel mounted one.

sounds like you need at least a speed sensor to use it with a non smart trainer, based on the zwift article eric just posted. not sure it’ll work with just trainer + cadence, since it doesn’t know what gear you’re in.

did a quick google search and looks like there’s a #lifehack to get a speed sensor on that flywheel:

Given the size of a bullitt it’s surprisingly hard to find a spot for a Garmin that’s pretty well hidden but will still get decent connectivity

Yeah, it sounds like a Stages is the way to go. Now I’ll have to train with power, lol

yeah, they work a lot better when pointed at the sky…

I know but pointed at the sky means it either gets stolen or worse, noticed by another messenger. Gotta keep the street cred up.

I found a random cell phone holster in the office under some papers. An old chrome one so definitely up for grabs. Threw that on an upright on the bullitt. Granted I only worked a couple hours today before I went home because it was super slow but it seemed to work alright and be inconspicuous enough to where it’ll probably never get nicked.

The Cateye refuses to pair with either one of my Stages, now. I guess it’s a good thing I have a Bolt coming on Monday. I have another FTP test on the schedule for this week.

In case anyone is interested, I figured out how to get ERG files out of Golden Cheetah onto the BOLT. You can copy the files over to the “plans” folder on the BOLT via USB, but they have to be formatted internally in a certain way. Hooray for no more hypoxic math.

The caveat I found is that the workouts have to use whole numbers (no 15s, 30s, 45s intervals), then the file Golden Cheetah exports should be accepted. If it isn’t, you have to edit the file to remove the decimals. It also looks like the BOLT wants a tab-delimited file. I’m going to see if I can work on a patch for Golden Cheetah, but for now, it’s a hand-edit.

QBP has a line of two new cheap GPS computers called the Miniac GPS-322 ($70) Miniac GPS-333 ($100). The cheap one is basic GPS for saving your rides, and more expensive one has Bluetooth and such. I’ve been without a GPS computer for a long time, using only my phone, but for the wholesale cost, I figure I will try out the 322 and report back.

$70 cost or retail?

Retail. Cost will probably prove too cheap for bike shop dweebs to pass up.

Report on the Miniac GPS-322? Or anyone recommend a Garmin thingy in the $300 range, offline maps for Type 2.5 and Type 3 pukebacking southern hemisphere everything will kill you fun?

$300 in hard currency, or Aussie?

The regular Garmin with maps is $250

Either or

Oh I forgot to mention need 25 hours plus life

$300 gets you a lot of Garmin.

25 hours plus life is probably not going to happen, unless you find the secret rando head unit.