Star nut / compression plug is only for preload. Once you tighten the stem on you could remove them if you where counting grams. The only way a thread less headset comes loose is something wasn’t installed right. Is the head tube faced?
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I did use a rubber mallet to install the cups. Made sure they went in evenly and didn’t see any gaps between them and the headtube. I’ll check that again along with the crown race. Don’t remember this happening with the old fork, might point to the race.
Feels so frustrating chasing this problem around.
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Axel on Rival cronks was too short for the EBB on my RLT. Found an old bb in my hoard in a box I had labeled “DO NOT USE.” Used it. Seems fine but if you hear a loud creaking sound around 6am PST it’s probably me riding to work.
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technically correct but not the whole truth in practice
I have both deliberately played with “look ma no spacers” using a clamp-on canti cable stop to hold the headset, and had slipping starnuts in thinwall OX Platinum steerers
it’s a relatively mild effect when it happens, but no a clamped stem will not always keep your genie in that bottle
The version of this on Shimano HT2 cranksets is much worse because of the tangential forces across the clamp slot — if your bearing preload bolt backs out, your left crankarm WILL fall off eventually, and timed for maximum embarassment
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Fred is right for sure. Not all plugs are created equal either. The best have a larger wedge assembly and are actually structural when installed. Also good to make sure the plug is well torqued inside the steerer before clamping the stem imo.
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Havent read any other part of your problem solving, but did you check that the steerer isnt cracked or aything?
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Don’t remove you star nut or compression plug after initial preload to save grams. Thats the worst idea mentioned.
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Don’t install you headset with a rubber mallet.
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Put some grease on the threads of the compression plug as well as the tapers on said compression plug.
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Don’t assume different crown race is exactly the same. Swap it.
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Yeah, I’d thought that compression plugs served to keep the steerer from getting crushed. But then I tend to learn a random thing and not update my knowledge for a decade so it’s always fun to hear what the state of the art is
wasn’t suggesting it just pointing out if isn’t keeping your headset tight… 
why is carbon assembly paste needed on the outside of the carbon steerer at the metal interface, but grease used inside the carbon steerer at the metal interface?
maybe: Because you want the extra friction outside to keep the stem in place, but you want the grease inside to enable the compression plug to fully/easily become expand to full size?
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Carbon paste on the inside of steerer. On a compression plug I grease the M6 threaded bolt and the upper/lower tapered section of the plug, not the inside of the steerer tube.
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Thanks, I forgot there was a conical taper thing going on inside there too.
stock photo
So?
- carbon paste on flat knurled section that interfaces with carbon steerer
- grease on bolts
- grease on conical section / active tapers
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Yessir
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in SLC
spent a few hours on friends bike bumming around town
then dropped a bunch of money at the lbs
and im about to go spend a couple hours in the backyard with it
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What LBS?
crankys (i think its a new location(?)), im staying near liberty park
Keeping the compression plug in.
I’ll use a piece of wood to install a headset next time
I’ll check on the greasing situation.
Installed new (rear) brake pads on the Jones. Went with genuine Shimano resin jobs hoping to get better performance than the old Jagwire pads (rotors are resin-only).
Had the rear brake mount/adapters faced last month, and it made a noticeable difference when realigning the caliper.
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Use a headset tool! Or at least a piece of allthread and some nuts and washers, christ!
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It’s a weird little bicycle culture thing that people always want to totally freestyle headset installation more than any other compnent’s install process. Like ok you made your own headset press out of plywood and a car jack?
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