wheel building / discussion thread

Does anyone have any idea if/when Alex will be selling their rim-brake 650b Adventure 2?

Finally had a second to setup tubeless Extralight Babbyshoe on the Brevet rims.
Couldn’t do it with normal pump strokes but once I engaged the tubless pump dump tank the tire bead jumped on the shoulder without much trouble.
I put 3 passes of tubeless tape on the front (finish a roll) and 2 passes on the rear. Front wheel tape seemed to help get a slightly better seal during inflation.
Had to do some slight retensioning on the front wheel after mounting and inflating the tubes.

Photo album here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/andy_squirrel/albums/72157668510146559

Click for video:

Old Wheelset with PL23 rims, straight gauge spokes, worn EL babyshoe pass tires, tubes… etc
Front: 1583g
Rear: 1664g

New Wheelset with Brevet rims, double butted spokes, brass nipples, new EL babyshoe pass TC tires, sealant, valve stem, tape, skewers, cassette
Front: 1520g
Rear: 1640g

Other interesting measurements.
PL23 Rim inner width: 18mm
Brevet Rim inner width: 19mm

TC Extralight Babyshoe weight: 374g (both identical)

Initial inflation (not stretched) TC Extralight Babyshoe width = 39.5mm
Interested to see how much it stretches out since Compass claims actual 42mm width.

Man, I love that popping sound that tells you shit is working!

Nice work!

aren’t you usually the one with that answer?

aren’t you usually the one with that answer?[/quote]

¯_(ツ)_/¯

let’s say that, hypothetically, you stripped two nipples building a wheel. the wheel is currently true. it still needs a tubeless tire, which may cause spoke tension to drop and need more tension.
what would be the best way for this hypothetical person to fix this problem? YOLO and carry on, or try to replace said nipples?
if replace nipples, how would this hypothetical person do that?

Replace before you tape rim and install tire. Can you get a wrench on it enough to back the nipple out? You don’t have to detension whole wheel for this. Just do one at a time.

i can’t even back the nipple off, but i guess i could grab the nipple with a set of pliers and go at it that way?

i am glad to hear i won’t have to detension the whole wheel

curious if they were alloy nips or brass?

If you can’t get anything to grab the nipple enough to back it out then I’d detension. Don’t set up a wheel ready to ride with a known flaw that could bite you down the road.

dt swiss brass. i’m a dumbass because i thought they took a 1 spoke wrench but in reality they take a 0.
thanks guys.

You must use a 3 sided wrench from now on. Worth every penny.
_____________4

ew, really?

I recently built a set of wheels with the DT Swiss Squorx nipples and now that’s the only nipple I ever want to use again.

aren’t you usually the one with that answer?[/quote]

¯_(ツ)_/¯[/quote]

This has been on my “gotta ask Tarck” list for a while. Really would like this rim.

[quote=fixed]i can’t even back the nipple off, but i guess i could grab the nipple with a set of pliers and go at it that way?

i am glad to hear i won’t have to detension the whole wheel[/quote]

double team that shit, get a flathead going from the outside and whatever might make it turn on the inside. lube it up. You can do it, man!

One old screwdriver with a slot in the middle to clear the spoke can help.

ooooooh that’s genius!!! i will do that.
now i just need to go buy two nipples because also like an idiot, i bought exactly 28 spokes and exactly 28 nipples

3 sided like this:

Not 3 sided like this: