Yup. I’ve done that exact build in disc and non-disc several times now.
Built a set using some Hope straight pull hubs. I don’t recall the exact weight, but they were close to 1400g iirc.
Use some Sapim D-lights and go with Sapim brass nips with the provided washers and you’re going to have a super nice set of wheels.
Just don’t crap it up with 6 bolt hubs.
Disc? RR411 isn’t disc or is there disc variation? There is the 460 disc.
Boyd Altamont or Altamont Lite are nice too.
I’ve got a lifetime supply of DT comps so I’ll prob lace with that unless the performance difference is THaT great
Comps are clearly good. Dlights are lighter.
Quick math says 34g/wheel savings over comps
BUT IT ALL ADDS UP
Marginal gains.
Yeah, rim and disc versions, asym also. 460 is a top budget option I agree, but marginal gains!
Can you get brass sqourx in the US? My 411s somehow weren’t supplied with nipples and only 50% of the washers, so I opted for brass sqourx replacements.
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=81937;menu=1000,2,302,304
The wheels I built most recently with double square sapims were so much more pleasant to build than conventional style nipples.
Question for the pros, if torque is applied on the length of the edge (i.e. the height of the nipple flat) and across the number of edges contacted (max 4 for sq, 6 for hex etc), are double square / sqourx designed to be able to take the ultimate tensioning spoke wrench force on the top square/sqourx section, or is the half height not enough to deal with this? I feel it is, as you get engagement on all 4/6 faces as it’s essentially using a socket (all faces) and not an open ended spanner (2 faces), so if a double height nipple flat is acceptable with a shitty standard nipple wrench torquing on two flats, then half height on 4+ flats is as good or better and maybe as good or slightly worse than a 3-sided wrench.
Edit: TL;DR for the above para: can you bring a wheel to final tension using the top square/hex/squorx part of the nipple or will it round over / shear off?
I’m confused, do you have a spoke cutter?
No I just bought boxes of basically everything from low 260s to mid 270s. Enough for at least a few more wheels
[quote=Blakey]
Can you get brass sqourx in the US? [/quote]
I think so, but I’m a big fan of the secure lock double square Sapim. Pretty sure they are cheaper too.
For shallow rims the secure lock Sapim hex is my plan B.
[quote=bward1028][quote=Roundabout]Or go four sided like a P&K Lie - plus some TAF colors.
[/quote]
Bought one of these and it scratched the shit out of my rims. Has bare metal touching right to the rim surface. I’ll sell it if someone wants a purple one.[/quote]
Strange, maybe you got a faulty one? I’ve built a half dozen wheel sets with mine and haven’t had this issue, though I do the majority of the tensioning internally when building
[quote=Blakey]
Edit: TL;DR for the above para: can you bring a wheel to final tension using the top square/hex/squorx part of the nipple or will it round over / shear off?[/quote]
Should be fine. You have to finish off inverted nipples same way.
Thanks Eric, I forgot about inverted nipples.
Trying to find another source for these or a similar model: https://fairwheelbikes.com/pillar-1422-bladed-ss-rainbow-spokes/
I need 268mm and 262mm, Fairwheel cuts them down from a few lengths but is too low on stock for the next month to fulfill the order
but I’ve only ever found the oddball Pillar stuff on Alibaba occasionally
They gotta be rainbow?
262 and 268 are both in stock. What am I missing here?
not in stock in a quantity sufficient to build a wheel, unless you are building a 12 spoke wheel
I almost ran into that problem with that last build. FWB found some they stashed and let me have them. Nice spoke and would use again.
Oh ok, that is rather expensive for a spoke.
Fred, if you find a wholesaler, please post it here so all our new wheels can be rainbow spoked.