The idea that DT will solve this problem is not correct.
[quote=ergott]I like Nox for most of the riding people talk about here. Doesn’t have the higher pressure limit, but weighs under 400g. I’ve built with them and they are plenty strong and all that.
http://noxcomposites.com/citico[/quote]
that’s just a normal MTB rim shape though
Yeah but 40mm rim plus a 35mm-40mm tire isn’t going to be aero regardless. Nox also has more road tire rim for that.
Waaa
I read that sapim had some issue with crappy steel for a bit. I really want this to be the magic fix. It worked on the back wheel.
Sapim crap spokes were straight pulls used by Easton.
Should I retension the wheels after I mount a (tubeless) tire? I built some WTB KOM i25s up to 120kgf but when I mounted the tires I saw a 20-30kgf drop in spoke tension. 25% drop in tension seems like quite a bit.
Yeah, re-tension.
When I built up the KOM i21s for my coffee grinder I had the same experience. I added more tension to get them back where they should be and those wheels have ridden great.
definitely retension. i’ve had them drop tension so much after mounting the tire that some spokes are wobbly-loose
I had the same experience with KOMs.
Retensioned everything last night with the tires at 40 psi… took about a half turn all around to get everything back to tension.
Conveniently enough the frame is supposed to show up today, so the wheels are ready to go just in time. We’ll see how they hold up…
Half turn is almost always the amount needed for recovering lost tension so for people that run into this and don’t have a tensiometer around I’d do that. Might have to double check dish too since it can bump a rim about 0.5mm if that bothers you.
[quote=yummygooey]Retensioned everything last night with the tires at 40 psi… took about a half turn all around to get everything back to tension.
Conveniently enough the frame is supposed to show up today, so the wheels are ready to go just in time. We’ll see how they hold up…[/quote]
Out of curiosity did you deflate the tire in the wheel stand to see how far out of true it goes as the pressure drops?
I didn’t specifically check for that, no.
The front wheel (symmetrical) was just +1/2 turn all around with localized -1/8 turns to get certain spots to line back up. The rear wheel was +1/2 turns DS and then +5/8 turns NDS to get it back to dish.
there’s a big step change from the bead being seated, and a small gradual change from increasing/declining pressure in the tire
My Elephant wheels are getting pretty gorss and aged after 3+ years of full time commuting, randoing and fucking around on, through winter salt and slush, and my dyno hub is dying (developing lots of bearing play). So, time for a few wheel building DQ’s.
First, what is the de rigeur carbon 650b rim for swapping between 48s and 2.1s? What inner width should I be shooting for? I’m ok with beadless and don’t really need asym, just not sure what width or brand I should go with. Light bicycle? Nextie? Sketchy eBay sellers?
Second, what fancy nipples y’all build with? Thinking about aluminum Sapim Polyax or something DT with the pro lock. Nipple washers a good idea with carbon rims?
ive got these dudes. they’re more expensive (by ~$60) than they were last year. look around for a coupon code.
I’ll take a pic later, but…
Sapim makes a nipple that isn’t PolyAx in shape which you should ask for. The rounded head really binds up in carbon rims a lot. The other nipple is shaped more like a traditional Wheelsmith and will turn much easier at tension. With brass it’s even more the case. Washers will alleviate this, but make sure you have HM in combination with PolyAx if that’s the case as most carbon rims have small holes in the rim bed that won’t clear a larger washer.
Good to know, I used HM washers in the current wheel set and would probably just reuse them or get more, in conjunction with spoke prep and nipple lubing
I use the Light Bicycle i22 330g jawns. They’ve been awesome, built to SP PL8 and XT hubs with Sapim laser spokes and brass nipples with polyax washers. Trued them after one ride and haven’t touched them since, 2.5 years later. As squirrel experienced, they do have a bit of a loose fit on the tire bead, but I’ve never had a problem getting or keeping a tire seated. I’ve used tires ranging from the babyshoe pass 40 to the racing Ralph 2.25 on them.
Took this:
Made this:
2000 grams for front and rear wheel together (without: tyres, cassette and rotors):
Hope Pro 4’s.
DT Swiss EX 511 in 27,5.
DT Swiss squorx nipples/washers.
DT Comp’s.
They feel fucking amazing and can’t wait to ride them!!!