I’d say back up a few steps and make sure you’ve brought the wheel up to tension slowly
Loosen until there is 1 thread showing on each spoke. Using the valve hole as your reference do a full turn all the way around, then another full turn max, and quarter turns or less after that. It takes a long time to bring up the tension slowly but it’s worth it.
If you have to loosen spokes, make sure you loosen, then tighten. For example, if you want to loosen 1/4 turn, loosen 1/2 turn, then tighten 1/4 turn.
Keep a built wheel laced in the same way handy to reference for proper spoke tension.
As the wheel starts to get tight, add a small drop of oil at each nipple/rim junction.
Make sure you release tension on the wheel once you start getting it close to final tension. Place it flat on the floor and with one edge of the rim and the hub touching the floor, work your way around the wheel, GENTLY pressing down. You should hear a little pinging. Flip the wheel over and repeat.
Get your wheel true, then work on rounding, then true again.
If your wheel is basically round and close to final tension and you still have a spot on the braking surface that’s scraping, use a combination of tightening and loosening to accomplish your goal. Crank down too much on one spoke at this point and you will only create lot more work for yourself chasing the problem around the wheel.
Get or borrow a dishing tool and use it frequently to check your work. Really.
Don’t get super anal retentive about truing a wheel before riding it. Installing a tire alone will change things, to say nothing of your first ride. Ride it for a few days, then throw it back up the stand.
Rims are not perfect. A properly tensioned, dished, and rounded wheel is the goal. Don’t worry if it scrapes a little bit on the stand after all your work. A millimeter give or take really doesn’t matter in the real world.