Wheelbuild- which rim would you build

So my shitty greatdeelsonbikez.com Mavic cxp22 wheel is cracking at the eyelets, so I’m having The Bike Biz build me a new rear wheel. Its going to be a Miche Primato fix/fix hub laced 3x to either a 36 hole DT Swiss RR1.1, Mavic CXP33 or Velocity Aerohead. Which of these rims do you think would be the most durable for a fatass 230# rider who lives in a city with horrible potholed streets?

ive always had good luck with mavic eyeleted hoops. ive got some ma-3’s right now that see 220lbs of abuse daily.

If you run a fatter tire (28 or >) the DT Swiss TK7.1 is nearly indestructible. I run a set on my One-Way 36 3x to Surly fixed/fixed, I’m about 170 but often find myself with 30# of random shit in the panniers. I’ve got around 1k on them so far and haven’t had to touch them with a spoke wrench once.

I was going to suggest Open Pros, but you probably don’t like Mavic very much right now. FWIW, I’ve got about a million miles on a set of Open Pros to Suzue Jr’s and they still run like a top. I’ve had them for 5 years, ride them year round, and I’ve only had to tension/true them 3 times. Sounds like you had a shitty build if your cxp22’s are cracking out like that.

You should contact Mavic or bicyclewheels.com about a refund. The problem your describing should be warrantied, and you should be able to get a new wheel for free.

Even if you can’t, I would just find another rim with the same profile and relace it all. That’ll save you a ton of money.

I guess I should contact bikewheels or mavic about the rim issue, I have thousands of miles on the wheels though, so I’m not sure they will do anything about it. Really though, I just want a nicer wheel and I’m using this as an excuse to get one.

any other suggestions?

I’ve built several of my (road and tarck) wheelsets with CXP33s…all them are still running straight and true. Great rims.

I have a velocity aero 36 hole rear wheel on my beater which has been through two hellish winters of all day riding on the streets of chicago and has never! needed even the slightest truing. Go with the aero36h.

DT Swiss build easier and truer than any rim I’ve ever seen.

For what its worth, velocity deep V’s are damn near bulletproof, despite the ragging they get pretty frequently from people, myself included. I dont like that they are heavy, but I ride one in the rear to keep up with rough streets, cobbled walkways etc. I probably wont ever rip on them again. There really isnt any reason not to run one in the rear if you are heavier, ride rough or dont want to deal with wheel maintenance.

There is no reason to go Deep V, except for color. The Niobium and DT Swiss RR 1.2 are far lighter rims for slightly more cost.

I dont know much about either of those rims, just suggesting that deep v’s are a fairly bulletproof option, though a bit heavier. How does strength add up in comparison on those two rims?

ambrosio excellight, 28 hole built with dt 14/15, 3 cross. it built up very quickly and easily.
head on with some jerkface on a very heavy shitty mountain bike. speed was only about 5mph but was enough to knock him on his ass and flip me over the bars with the bike following me, then jam my eyeball on his handlebar end after his bike layed over.
my wheel…it was almost perfectly straight after, and it was built a week prior, not even trued after the initial build.
that’s a nice rim.
i could only imagine one of their deep section rims or a 36 hole rim. deepVs suck. the joints are horrible.

carbon zipps

I have a spreadsheet full of prices and actual weights for a lot of these rims because I’m shopping to build a new rear too. Here’s a bit:

I have conflicting weights for the RR 1.2, but either way it’s about the same as a Deep V.

Does anybody know if a “bright silver” Deep V means polished aluminum?

Excuse me as I hijack this thread ever so slightly, but have others had trouble with wheels purchased at bicyclewheels.com? I picked up the Sun M13II/Formula set about a month ago, noticed some serious wobble a little while back, and found that half the spokes in the rear wheel were totally slack. They definitely weren’t that way when I got the wheels, so are there other things that could cause such extreme spoke loosening or is it just a poopy build?

The Deep V is a far better value than either of these rims, and as Blicks points out, the weight difference when it comes to the RR 1.2 is either negligible, or decidedly in Velocity’s favor.

This happened to me. Just the rear though, the front is fine. I tensioned the wheels using a tensionmeter and shit, but Ii think i overdid it a little, hence the cracking. I’m doubtful their wheels are truly handbuilt.

Argh, the more I research this the less I can decide.

I have an Open Pro on the rear of my daily whip. I abuse the crap out of it. I can vouch for the Open Pro, its bombproof, light and runs great. I have been riding this bike daily for 2 years, extremely hard.

My weinman dp18s from that guy are still solid and true after several months of daily pothole slamming and one crash into a limo. The build seems to me to be solid as hell.