All things NuMTB thread, now lower longer and slacker

it’s a giant rim. thankfully not as wide as ibis rims as I feel like they are too wide. i didn’t ride the stock wheels on the ripmo at all, but I put so many dents in my old ibis rims when I had my mojo.

Forgot that the shop i took it to has a heated bike wash thing, so he rinsed out all the sealant from my rim and dried it out and then re-taped it and it appears to have stuck a lot better. Plus my nips will hopefully not get dissolved by the stans.

They had the “e-bike” cushcore, so IT BETTER WORK.

I loaded my bike into the car with no rear wheel and then went down to the shop, grabbed the wheel, started driving home, and realized I left my thru axle at work (and not planning to go back until monday). So that was dumb. But I did thankfully find out that my ripmo uses the exact same thru-axle dimensions. Same length, just a flat surface on the dropout (No weird conical shape like on sup’s status). I confirmed they needed the same one on robert axle just to be sure.

So we’re back in business. The trails are still melting snow muddy mess though.

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Man what Canada products must I buy for my mtb in the coming hours?

MTB folks, help me. If I put a 51mm offset fork on a frame designed for 42/44 mm, am I gonna die? will it suck?

I wouldn’t be scared of more offset

it will not suck

the industry change was mostly a trend for the sake of it

that difference in fork offsets changes the flop+trail to feel like a half-degree difference in HTA in the steering feel, with less offset feeling slacker

but unlike an actual change to HTA your front-center stays the same and sliding fork stanchions behave the same, the industry product managers did it because they couldn’t really go under ~64° without fucking everything up

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thanks! this would be on an optic so 65* HTA. looking at a frameset and trying to figure out how to most affordably build it up, and there’s some good deals on forks to be found if you’re not picky about offset it seems

Back in the dawn of 29ers the forks tended to be just taller 26" forks with 38mm of offset. In order to keep the trail the same (for some reason) the head angles were made steeper to compensate for the extra trail added by the bigger wheel. This also could make the front center but nobody seemed to notice since the wheels were less likely to endo.

Once 29ers became mainstream designers realized they could scale up the fork offset to match the bigger wheel and then they could use similar head angles and not upset the geometry table knowers. The extra front center was a nice bonus.

Some brand(s), looking for a way to stand out, decided 29er front centers could be too long and pulled them back using the older shorter offset forks and gave it a cool name.

It’s all a lot of noodling and you’ll probably adjust to either fork option and if you get obsessed and swear you made the wrong choice an angleset would probably convince you that you “fixed” things.

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that was one of the explanations used in marketing materials, but it’s almost as nonsense as its sibling “fork offset and stem length should match”

the true outcome is that it makes the steering even floppier like if they slacked the HTA further, but makes the front-center slightly shorter instead of significantly longer and doesn’t make your fork bind

My Norco Optic came with one of these stock which upset me as a geometry knower, but the difference is pretty marginal. If I were replacing the fork I’d be looking for a 51mm offset by default and if there’s deals to be had it would make that decision even easier.

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At the end of last year, i was in a rush to find a rear wheel to replace the one I taco’ed right before a mtb trip. The local shop, who have always been great to work with, saved my bacon because they had a take off wheel from a customer’s bike that they let me have for cheaper then anything that I could have ordered in time. Well, when i was boxing the bike up for the trip i noticed the threads on one of the rotor bolts were banged up. Since it was the night before, i just told myself to be careful. Anyways, I am now at a point where the threads are no good. What would tarck do? Try to repair the threads or rebuild the wheel using the old hub from the wheel I taco’ed with the rim from the wheel I bought from the bikeshop?

Edit: I still need to replace the drivetrain too, so I am wondering if I should find a microspline rear wheel since the cost of 12 speed deore + wheel might be close to SRAM GX.

Rear wheel and 5/6 of the bolts are still good? Is the hub built in such a way that you can get a nut on the backside of the rotor mount?

Otherwise I’d feel fine about a helicoil repair in that situation.

IIRC isn’t 6 bolt designed to need 3 (evenly space) bolts so there’s still two more than bare minimum? Don’t quote me!

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So i put one up carbon bars on my ebike and so far they are great. But had a minor crash today (literally just JRA and fell over, no idea what happened) and my bike flipped up and landed hard on the bars. A loose piece of granite sliced right through my esi grip and scraped my bars.

Are these things fucked?



(Used a flashlight to highlight so shadows may make it look even worse than it is)

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I’d probably still ride it if there aren’t any visible cracks. It’s at the lowest stress part of the bar.

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Not an engineer though

out of sight out of mind

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:smilingpvd:

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Lets talk 120mm hardtails. My friend has been incepting this idea that a steel hardtail with custom tubes and most importantly a 27.2 ST diameter ridden in SS creates this flexy but stiff magic ride. Matt Hart on Instagram: "#matthewhartdesigns #singlespeed#customframebuilding#steelframebuilding#pinkisthenewblack#customhardtail"

The closest 2 production hardtails I see which meet this criteria are the Newhaus Hummingbird: Hummingbird | Steel Hardtail Mountain Bike – Neuhaus Metalworks
31.6 ST but is SS

and Fairlight Holt 1.0 - 27.2 ST but no SS

Thinking of trading up my Chisel hardtail for one of the following but don’t want to compromise. As it stands the chisel is light fast and but in terms of ‘flex’ :woman_shrugging:

yes a lighter skinnier seattube and toptube will spark joy

but hard to get that in steel in a production frame

Sounds like the Fairlight Holt. Though is skinny tubing a meme at this point in 2025? The mythical quest for the unattainable…