My four year old plastic fenders are truly on their last legs, they rattle like crazy and both mudflaps fell off long ago. Fortunately, bikes with ample fender clearance make it a lot easier to yolo beat to shit fenders. Have a fresh set in the basement, but have been too lazy to put a new set on but now that’s actually raining I need to do it. I hate arriving to work with wet legs up to my knee.
I think we’re going to have a warm, but wet & windy winter if this fall is any indication (but weather doesn’t work like that, I know).
Before you just go for the most aggressive option, studded tires, try these. Studded tires excel in very cold conditions where snow falls in very fine crystals, Alaska, that collapse and harden into something not quite like water ice. Glare ice requires a lot more studs than you want for riding on the roads.
I’m gonna be on a fendered MTB this winter as well. Right now I have slicks on it, with the option of putting on the stock knobbies. My commute is only 3 miles if I take the train, with the option to make it 20 if I’m feeling lively.
I think I’m gonna try out the knobbies and see how that goes, and just adjust accordingly.[/quote]
I’ve ridden through 6 winters in denver. I have fenders on a bike of the roads might be wet, but fuck fenders on a bike that will be in snow. I’ve had to walk my bike too many times to snow packing in between the tires and fenders to deal with that again. Like Amy, I pull out the mountain bike if its substantial snow, which is only necessary a few times a winter.
Weird they list them as e-bike tires now. Especially since batteries don’t work well in below freezing temps. They are the shit if your bike can fit them.
High of 87 yesterday and the wind chill is below 40 right now. I’m already pissed off at the amount of ice this type of weather pattern is going to make.
Yeah, that was the only time in my life that school was canceled. I only got two days off though cause Mayor D didn’t fuck around with snow removal like fucking Rahm does.
Cut and drilled out the metal part of a p-clamp to get this a bit lower. Might be a little too low because of the other nut. Might be able to fix this with a longer bolt
Mostly seem to have trouble with the front wobbling though. I wonder if it’s because of the fender eyelets being inside the fork and half way up. Also seems to screw up the curve around the back part of the wheel, as it sorta bulges out a bit. Also I think the threading inside one side is stripped a bit. It still holds but I can’t seem to get it tightened.
Yea it wouldn’t clear the calipers otherwise with that rack (with the set of shorter brackets that came with it) and I didn’t feel like returning it and getting some other kind. I ride with a blackburn pannier scooched up as far as it will go and it rides fine. Plus, no chance of heel strike.
If I were you, I’d drill the rear fender like Fred said, and mount the fenders tight to the brake bridge and fork crown. Then mount the biggest tires that’ll fit under the fenders, and adjust the spacers down by the bb and fender stays for perfect fender line. That’s how I’ve done things.
