I think at that point I’d just go with a steel fork. M5 used to make a monoblade crabon fork, unfortunately they no longer sell it.
Excuse my ignorance, but why monoblade?
assuming for marginal aerodynamic benefit?
[quote=Recumbentist]
But would it be able to handle an 80psi 32 mm tire? Says 45 psi.[/quote]
No. Even the Crest had issues with this. The rim compresses so much at higher pressure that the spoke tension required to keep it from coming apart will result in cracking at the nipples in a short amount of time.
Backing Fred on this.
I want to run a dropped chain for efficiency. So I need to either use an offset fork, a fork with very narrow blades, or a mono blade.
That’s crazy.
Why in god’s name would you run 80 psi on a 32? Currently running 35/55 on mine.
a 406mm tire has 60% the volume of a 622mm tire
and the rear of a recumbernt has mega weight distro on it
That right there is the kind of knowledge that keeps me coming back.
a 406mm tire has 60% the volume of a 622mm tire
and the rear of a recumbernt has mega weight distro on it[/quote]
#recumbentproblems
In my case I run 70-80 on my 700c 32mm tire because I’m fat
Im probably doing it wrong at 200lbs with 50psi in my front 28, 70 in the back. Apparently i’m used to a little bit of wobble in a tire.
Yeah, I’m learning that everything about getting a recumbent to be light and to just work properly is crazy. There is no standard platform, and of course recumbents haven’t benefited from more than a century of optimization. When I got my first recumbent, an M5 carbon high racer, it was stonishing that they could sell such a creaky poorly designed POS. So much had to be done right out of the box to get it to work properly. And they’ve been selling this bike for many years without correcting its many, many deficiencies. Not to mention that thing was terrifying to ride; I managed but it was unbelievably twitchy, couldn’t make sharp left turns because the fucking wheel would catch the chain, accepted only 23 mm tires, etc, etc. On some recumbents, like the VeloKraft NoCom, you can actually run over your own chain. WTF WTF WTF.
For some reason, this is considered acceptable in the recumbent community. You’re not really buying a bike, you’re buying a project. I wish to hell I didn’t have to ride one.
The mind boggles…
The mind boggles…[/quote]
how does your beard flutter in the wind with that fairing?
holy shit
Ferg let’s train up for pbp 2019
I really enjoyed a 17:30 start
I just copied this over from the dum questions thread, since it’s more appropriate here
Gearing for recumbents is hard. I need a very high top gear so I can get all of it on the flats, but I also need an ultra low gear to make it up routine 15% grades. So how do I do that with electronic shifting? I’d love to use WiFli but I see no way of getting appropriate gearing.
I’m thinking about using XTR Di2–but I don’t think I can use a mountain derailleur on a 50/34 combo up front? I’d use an 11-42 cassette. Or is there a way to get XTR Di2 to shift a Di2 road derailleur?
Fuckin recumbents are making me bang my head against a wall. Anyone got a source for a 20" carbon fiber fork with a 1" steer tube? yeah, that’s what I’m up against. Does anyone make light 1" headsets any more, or are they all boat anchors?
Also too, who is still making light 26" rims. I can’t fit a 650b rim in the back unfortunately.
Help me build this bastard. It’s basically a cost no object exercise since I’m converting no less than 6 upright bikes into 2 recumbents.
This is what I’m thinking right now. The main object of this first bike is absurdly light. The Zockra which will be built later this year will be all aero all the time.
- Trickstuff Piccola brakes pink
- Ashima rotors
- Ideally: Chris King Sour Apple rear, lefty sour apple front
- Anyone still making ultralight 26” rims?
- Burroughs Monoblade, black (will arrive without powder coating).
- Crank: 160 mm Lightning, no logo; 50/34 rings, preferably Rotor
- XTR Di2/11-42 rear
- Lighting: Would like a way of mounting light below boom instead of sticking way up over the boom to keep it in the “wind shadow”
7a. Front light: Exposure. Would like a way to switch it on/off highbeam/lowbeam remotely. They do make a button to do this; obviously the cable would need to be greatly extended
7b. Rear light—need to mount on chainstay. Was thinking about Dinotte quad red.
One other thing is that along with being absurdly light in weight, I also want to light this thing up like a Christmas tree since part of my goals involve some 24-hour UMCA rides. Many of these are on open road so I want to be a blinking flashing eyesore at night (or whatever it takes to be as visible as possible).
Please criticize me.
I would be sketched out on the Ashima rotors, why not the matching option from Trickstuff? Also that King R45 is going to be centerlock, I’d use the new Dura Ace RT900 140mm rotor on the rear.
Are you sure the monoblade fork takes a ‘normal’ Lefty hub and not one of the trike standards? You’re probably gonna need a 160mm 6-bolt rotor there either way.
Here’s your rims: http://www.nextie.net/mountain-clincher-24mm-NXT26XC24 http://www.nextie.net/bmx-20-inch-406
Do both wheels as 24h 2x with bladed spokes. You might have to order a 36h hub for the front, real easy to lace that way just calculating the spoke lengths for “2.17 cross”.
Lightning crank is a great choice, RaceFace makes the best threaded BBs for them