I actually don’t know if the front is a standard lefty. I asked them like 5 times but couldn’t get an answer. I was also thinking about the Extralite Hypercamber, but it uses a bushing instead of a bearing??? I was also thinking about
Didn’t we already talk about those rims not taking 70-75 PSI? For the rear I’m actually thinking I’ll do a Stan’s Alpine on this bike.
I’m rethinking the Lightning, but only because, apparently, Garmin Vectors won’t fit on them. I’ve been getting serious about training, not so much for speed, but more for not wanting to fall over on a 15% grade.
Ashima rotors: All reports I’ve heard is that they are a-ok. Rob uses them a lot with no issues.
Would 165mm cranks be a problem? is there something about that extra 5mm that’s critical? if you can run 165s then power meter and chainset options open up.
Not absolutely critical. I was going to ultimately dual 26" the Fujin. With a 26" wheel in front I need that 5 mm to avoid hard crank/tire interference. Ah, recumbents.
There’s no fuckin way a Stan’s Alpine is gonna take more pressure, that’s one of the noodliest vintage disc rims
That Nextie 26" rim is labeled for 45psi because they’re assuming at least 2" tire, the forces are dramatically lower in a smaller tire. Reasonably fancy aluminum rims have similar limits, even a modern burly Stan’s rim rated for downhill is going to be labeled like that.
[quote=JUGE FREDD]There’s no fuckin way a Stan’s Alpine is gonna take more pressure, that’s one of the noodliest vintage disc rims
That Nextie 26" rim is labeled for 45psi because they’re assuming at least 2" tire, the forces are dramatically lower in a smaller tire. Reasonably fancy aluminum rims have similar limits, even a modern burly Stan’s rim rated for downhill is going to be labeled like that.
Won’t moving the pedals require calibration every time you swap them? Didn’t you want to use 2-bolt shoes?
Seems a lot easier to give each brokeneck bike its own appropriate PM without having to compromise on other parts. The PT hub is only $300 and 75g more than the King you were going for…
They make their own forks, and make it clear they customize. Maybe?[/quote]
Uh I see a lot of generic open mold chinese carbon marked up 3x, no forks, and nothing custom?
[quote=JUGE FREDD]Won’t moving the pedals require calibration every time you swap them? Didn’t you want to use 2-bolt shoes?
Seems a lot easier to give each brokeneck bike its own appropriate PM without having to compromise on other parts. The PT hub is only $300 and 75g more than the King you were going for…[/quote]
Hmm didn’t realize powertap was so inexpensive. That might work well.
Sure you need to “calibrate” the pedals, but I bet it’s a zero reset against a factory calibration curve rather than a calibration, so NBD. That PT hub looks like it’s $800.
Working at a shop that did everything by the book with clients who required dependability, Vector pedals were a PITA for us–required a torque wrench to install too; Always tried to steer folks towards crank based power (Quarq or SRM) for dependability.
unless we’re talking different ashima rotors, the ultralight ones I have are pretty shit compared to shimano rotors. worth the weight penalty. these sawtooth looking ashimas make my hydro shimano setup feel like rim brakes
Still needs a bunch of random shit implemented:
steering limiters for the captain so he can’t jam the linkage rod
chain management on the front with idler pulleys somehow
the stoker needs a corncob junior cassette and a barend shifter
the boom extension needs to be keyed to the collar and get internal dynamo wiring
chainstay/seatstay bridges for Wald fenders
custom mid-bike basket and pannier racks
The drivetrain also seems like it’s not quite feature-complete, the front is linked with a disc cog so singly-independent, the stoker can coast at any time. But if the stoker pedals they force the captain’s feet, and if either person backpedals they’ll backpressure the other.
It could be fully-independent if the captain’s chainrings were both on the right with a freewheeling crank, but getting all three chains on one side is a chore. Could bolt a chainring spider to the front DS hub flange? It’s also really easy to jam the middle shift on the Rohloff and be fucked on a climb, more independence doesn’t help avoid that but does make it much easier to get started again afterwards.
I couldn’t captain it as-is with the owner stoking, he weighs 80lb more than me and it was stupidly hard to get started with him on the front, especially with the front tire underinflated. It’ll be interesting to see how well we can tune the weight balance and steering to make that possible.
