get you a jawn that can do both
https://www.cycle-frames.com/MODULAR-142-12-DROPOUT-IN-STEEL-SHIMANO-SPEC.html
that way it supports cheap chinese wheels, and anybody building their own can use a decent thru-axle hub
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Yeah that’s probably a good plan.
Do you have a spec in mind for rear brake mounting @arlew ? With that derpout iso on the SS is the easy option.
An alternative spendy option is paragon modular dropouts that can also be swapped QR to TA but have the brake mount on the insert along the CS. Adds like $100 to frame cost though.
the chainstays are gonna be fucky enough as it is without 4" long dropouts
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This is what I’d envisioned. There likely won’t be much room between the CS and SS for a brake because of the short ST height
I was real confused about those Nova dropouts being listed as 142 until I realized you can put them as far apart as you want haha
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If you know the rough dimensions I can help 2d CAD the frame but as far as building one there’s a bunch of frames already in the queue.
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I didn’t say it was a better idea… but sometimes folks want options!
Based on the Q of the race face 149mm spindle cranks (83mm bb) there shouldn’t be any limitations of chainstay cross section due to crank arm clearance.
What does the burro have fir chsinstsys? They look round in the picture. I feel like 3/4” or 7/8” straight gauge would be the way to go.
Was gonna echo this, for heel clearance reasons.
Something else to consider re: tire width and OLD is if the dangler cage might hit the tire in the largest cog.
On my Sundeal with a 135 OLD and a 2.1 tire I’ve got scant clearance there.
yeah I had to use an “8 of 10” e-bike drivetrain for the dangler to clear the tire on my Katu with a long enough cage for an 11-42t
Hmm.
Everything else being equal bumping the rear spacing to 170mm would equate to a 3.5” tire with the same scant clearance. Though an increase in overall diameter should bring the widest point of the tire further from the dangler.
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They are round, 7/8", and have a dimple on the NDS only. They’re 420mm long too.
I’ve got an 11-36 10s cassette with a Zee short cage RD and although the chain does buzz the 2.8 tire a bit, the RD cage is nowhere near the rim/tire
I have a Zee(edit: short cage) in the parts pile, it’s the XT M8000 GS that’s close.
Thanks for the offer @drwelby - I figure the drawing only needs as much fidelity as the framewelder requires… @rancid_burple any insight on what would be required? I think most of the angles are determined but maybe it would be good to hop on a zoom at some point to chat through some of the finer details?
(sorry that sounds so work-y, just sounds like we might want to touch base and sync up 
)
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Sure I can do that!
In short: I think I’d want to see a typical side view with angles, lengths and diameters for the tubes and then views of the the CS and SS on the opposite plane with the angles and locations of bends.
I can screenshare and show you how I work in rattlecad to give you an idea.
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What’s the most cog you can fit in an rd-m8000?
Hmm I haven’t really tested that.
42?
Really? I’m considering buying a larger cog just to try ir
Obviously depends on the chainring size, but for me with a 38t ring up front and an 11-36t cassete, I have wayyy more low-end range than I need. I’m considering going to a 42 on the burro and then I think the 11-36 would be perfect.
Curious what sort of drivetrain folks would expect to use on this? Or what is being used on people’s Sundeals? The bigger the ring, the trickier the chainstay clearance gets…
I’d be inclined to think 36t is plenty with the small wheels. Is there a way to get a 10t on the other end without going to 12s?
hmmmm CS-HG70-S