what method do you use to get that cog locked in place?
I have a chainwhip but I’ve found that rotafixing is a lot easier to get it tight.
chainwhip
pedalling
I rotafix and I’ve never had a cog or lockring slip, ever. Its easy to get it tight enough…don’t overdo it.
Rotafixing will get the cog super tight, but it will also usually scratch your frame. Also, if you’re not some kind of skid-meister, it’s usually overkill. So chainwhip.
chainwhip on
rotafix off
Initially, I just stepped on my right pedal, holding it in a forward position while rotating the wheel backward, then I rode around a bit while only using my brake to slow. I check the lockring every once in a while and I’ve never noticed any slipping.
A bit OT: I recently got a BMX freewheel to go on the other side of my hub, and the guys at the shop were all like “You know how to install that!?” like there’s some sort of magic to threading on a freewheel and pedaling. It was kinda annoying.
rotafix is…?
-j
Its pretty obvious that you can avoid scratching your frame by wrapping you BB shell with a rag. Also, rotafixing doesn’t have to be overkill…no one said you have to make it vein-popping tight.
rotafix, i am a skid-meister.
rotafix; i like my knuckles.
thanks for the replies. i had a friend recommend trying the rotafix method, just wondering how many others use this method instead of a chainwhip.
[quote=“04jtb”][quote=“Teh Muffmuff”]rotafix is…?
-j[/quote]
http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm[/quote]obviously this is the site i was looking at. what’s up with step #4?
“The lock ring is now unnecessary.”
[quote=“shawn o”] what’s up with step #4?
“The lock ring is now unnecessary.”[/quote]
This is a track specific tutorial. The lock ring is basically always unnecessary on the track, since you never SKID, and back pedaling is never that forceful.
I Rotofixed a cog to the free side of a hub that the fixed side got ruined on… No lockring… It has never budged! It is very effective. I was forced to use the Rotofix method exclusively when I broke my chainwhip and couldn’t get another (1/8). I would say that if you don’t change your set up much it is a fine way to go. If you are swapping out cogs once or twice a night at the track I would go with a nice whip…
I couldn’t find a decent 1/8 whip so I modified a park 3/32 whip with some master links and 1/8 chain…
[quote=“Quinn8it”][quote=“shawn o”] what’s up with step #4?
“The lock ring is now unnecessary.”[/quote]
This is a track specific tutorial. The lock ring is basically always unnecessary on the track, since you never SKID, and back pedaling is never that forceful. [/quote]
is that a common practice? no lockring on the track?
i did the same thing with a park 3/32. worked just fine and avoided having to order one.
I have lock rings on both cogs on my track wheels, but I do see guys running without lock rings.
A bicycle chain can shred a rag like nothing, and keeping the rag wrapped tightly while the chain turns isn’t always easy. Also, if you reverse rotafix in order to remove a cog (almost certainly necessary if you’ve tightly rotafixed it to start with), then you’ll need to also wrap your chainstay in order to keep it from scratching.
Which is why I said “usually.” I’ve certainly found it to be overtightened in my experience as a track racer and bicycle mechanic.
Yes. A lockring is generally considered extraneous, but rules vary from track to track.
I always tighten with a chain whip then mash up the nearest hill, walk back down and install lock ring, done. That shit isn’t going anywhere.
I always use a whip and then carry a lockring tool with me for a day in case I feel anything slip. Never had a problem.