If you want dope flanges Ian can recommend some proper brandzs.
Poast pix.
High flange DA’s checking in…
super bee pro
fwiw i ride a dura-ace rear track hub through all kinds of chicago weather and i’ve never had any issues. i’ve serviced it once in the year and a half i’ve had it and even then it didn’t really need it.[/quote]
Same experience, going on three years in NEO. Some people do report that they have issues with even just a rain storm, but I have not had that at all. Given, I have more than one bike, so these weren’t out every snowy day all winter, but they have gotten wet, gotten salty, and generally been ridden a ton without any regard for their lack of sealed barrings. When I purchased the hubs used one of the rear cones was slightly pitted, but that was a $10 repair and they have been perfect since.
With that said, next wheelset I build, if I ever need one, is just going to be with Formula hubs. I don’t see much reason to dump extra money into hubs for general street riding anymore.
Generally, angle put on the spokes between high flange and high profile rims is, according to many people I respect, an unnatural angle that will ultimately build a weaker wheel. Unless, the parts where designed for those angles…/blah blah blah.
even when laced x2?
TONS of people run 808’s with high flange hubs w/ no problems.
High flange high profile rims have greater lateral stiffness. There can be issues with extreme spoke angles, though. I doubt it’d be a problem on the hub side, but on the seat on the rim may not work for extreme angles.
I started to add this but quit when realizing I don’t know anything about 808s,
Was reading about this recently. It’s more of an issue using 3x on a high-profile rim and a high-flange hub. I think it’s also an issue with 26er wheels and powertap hubs which are about the same dimensions as a chub.
Is there a spoke length calculator that also calculates the angle the spoke would leave the rim?
I guess it is actually a fairly easy calculation to do on paper.
spocalc, maybe.
I can’t get behind Formulas because the ones I had had shitty hardware that rusted and cracked. Other people I know had the same experience.
I can’t get behind Formulas because the ones I had had shitty hardware that rusted and cracked. Other people I know had the same experience.[/quote]
You can get Formulas, new hardware and new axles, if you’re into that, though I’ve never personally had a problem with the Formula axles. Axles cost $10-$15, decent track nuts cost about $4 each. Formulas are insane in the bang for the $$ category, and they can take a lot of abuse. I had formulas on a rain/trail bike that I never maintained at all and rode everywhere for a year. They have taken all kinds of grime, sloppy landings, side loads, roadside/trailside removal, etc. They still spin fine, the threads are still reasonably clean and the axles are still straight. Not bad for a hub allegedly designed for the track. I’m going to use those wheels on all future beater/singlespeed builds.
I like nice hubs and all, but it’s hard to justify getting anything but formula for non-track fixed use, IMO. They’re pretty cheap and work just fine, and it’s not like with road/mountain/BMX hubs, where more money gets you something tangible and immediately noticeable, like better freehubs and drivers. Why get Dura Ace to ride in the snow and rain?
Anyone know where I can order some anodized Formula hubs? I can’t seem to find any place online. I can get gold anodized ones laced up in a wheelset from bicyclewheels.com, but I don’t see any place that sells them separately.
http://cgi.ebay.com/GREEN-FORMULA-FIXED-GEAR-SINGLESPEED-TRACK-HUBS-32-HOLE-/200293561182?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea26d335e#ht_2184wt_933
green?
I can’t find anywhere that sells a lot of colors it’s all black, shiny and maybe another
Get some Milwaukees. Like formulas just better hardware. They come annod too.
I really like the milwaukee hubs, but I got a new set of formulas for $60 from prowheelbuilder. Could not pass up.
The only thing i don’t like about milwaukee hubs is the little grippy nut that presses against the inside of the dropout gets worn really easily so they tend to spin when loosening/tightening your tracknuts. Easily remedied but kind of a PITA when you’re trying to quickly change a tube.