Did you just ShartQ?

Replace housing with SP41 and a good stainless slick cable.

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the Optislick polymer coated cables are perfectly compatible with the Shimano grease

but it’s rarely the right idea to add the grease yourself

their SP41 housing comes perfectly greased internally

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Ok ok sure consistent advice from two world class experts but riddle me this: what if I want to keep using Jagwire iLinks because they’re gold and look cool as hell

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Life is suffering.

But I’m pretty sure you can replace the liners on that stuff.

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You sure can, and if jagwire original tube is hard to find there are ali versions to be had.

then in this case, get some new sections of liner tube and floss the SP41 grease through it first before assembling the beads onto your bike’s Friendshift Bracelet

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Tarcklebee nom for new verbiage related to complicating mechanical cabling components

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I have some successfully tubeless mounted Jan tires on my Riv that I want to swap out for knobbies for an upcoming grav grav event. Will they ever reseat after removal, or am I gon die.

It is possible. I’ve done it. But there is a chance that it won’t work? Worth it to try atmo. Worst case you buy new tires?

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I have a set of Jan tires that have been mounted and unmounted and remounted at least 3 times now without issues

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What are the actual name of these types of crimp connectors so I can buy a mess of them?

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?

Spade connector, I believe

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spade female.

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Sorry, I mean the crimp style where it grabs the wire and the insulator?

image

Non insulated female spade connector

double crimp. hard to find in bike wire sizes. at least on mcmaster anyway. my memory might be off but i recall either one “sex” or both not being available in double crimp

2.8mm the right one for dyno lights? 16-22 gauge.

image

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Connection to a SON hub requires a larger size (4.8 mm?), but yeah, that looks like the right size for all the wiring to the lights.

Tbh, this is for a deathmobile project, but I learned about those from wiring dynos. Been smitten with them ever since.