The carbon ones are amazing bikes
I have at least three in my basement that youâre welcome to.
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My bikes only make me unhappy when Iâm not riding them. I should ride them all at once all the time.
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Not sure this is a proper shartq, but what caliper brake pads are you all liking for wet conditions? I see Kool Stop ceased making the triple compound pads I used to really like. 
I use salmon pads, who knows if theyâre any better than black pads.
i always liked salmon pads, but i hear they wear out your rims even faster
Iâve always just run dura ace pads year round and drag the brake early in the wet to help push the water off the rim.
The real answer is disc.
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Kool Stop Salmon pads are the best for wet riding
Never did me wrong in sloppy Wisconsin
They are also good in dry weather, but, yes, will wear rims out faster
what makes it the 20" / 2.4W version is that it has fewer of the same magnets
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ok Iâm not a physics guy here, but: is using a 26"-28" dyno in a 20" wheel going to do anything bad to the wheel or lights? Capacitor?
I have a Kasai 20" on one bike and an Alfine s501 20" on another. Neither will ever go faster than like 15mph if thatâs relevant.
Something something generators stators friction current
The hub will perceive youâre going faster than you are so youâll generate more power at a given speed (hub overall efficiency should be same). But youâll feel more friction at the hub so youâll lose those precious watts
So to counterbalance I should occasionally take the pounds of accumulated garbage out of the cargo area of the bikes in question?
I was thinking about this because Shimanoâs instructions specified that the s501 was for a larger wheel than I was using it on. I guess if the capacitor explodes on the cycletruck the cargo bucket will shield me, and on the longjohn my kidâs face will do the same. Iâm invulnerable!
if the front light has a current limiter, wonât that equalize the drag? like if you turn the light off, it rolls smoother cuz the electrons arenât being swizzled around right?
shorter lever though, so maybe youâd still feel it more despite the same amount of energy being moved to and fro
Not to the wheel. And most likely not to the light (if you can drop down a bluff at 50mph on a big wheel without your headlight exploding puttering around on a cargobike wonât kill it either) though the usual warnings about running just a taillight apply.
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the StVZO labeled watts are at an arbitrary euro puttering speed
altering either the wheel size or the count of magnets will change the effective rpm, and thus the AC frequency for a fixed speed
the only result is that the output curve gets offset up and down:
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Ah yeah thatâs comforting.
What battery operated lights do you all like? For seeing at night not just being seen. Plz no magneto.
Itâs always hard to go wrong with Light & Motion
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Iâve been happy with my Blackburn Dayblazer front+rear. Iâve got the 800 front and 125 rear. The front has enough juice to run at full output for about an hour. I havenât tried using the back in Japanese Seizure Robots mode, so Iâm not sure how long it will run at full output.
The main reason I went with the Blackburn is for the IP67 enclosure, after killing two lights in a season due to water ingress.
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I had terrible luck with Light and Motion, two duds in a row for bar mounted front lights. I switched back to Knog and have been using the same cheap usb rechargable lights for the better part of a decade.
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