@iwillbe and @rancid_burple 's tipped up and shoes back advice gave me a lovely 22 miles this morning, thanks.
but new nonsense
the post in clamped via an expanding wedge, which rests on a shelf inside the ST
when installed properly there is a lip of ~5mm of aluminum, as seen in this gorgeous photo:
now this is where the real magic happens! when riding, as the chairpole flexes to pedal stroke, the CF rubs on that lip of aluminum and makes a wonderful sound. unfortunately, i’m not worthy of this sound and i need it excised from my life immediately.
today i tried riding with the wedge flush with the top of the ST, squeaking went away completely, but even at proper torque i had some noticeable slippage (with seatpost slipping at a greater rate than wedge but both slipping).
ive been wrapping my brain around what to do. the squeaking has to stop. one idea was packing something in on the “shelf” to raise it and add some aluminum can shims?
then i realized i should just cut off that fucking lip.
which leads us to my shartq, should i cut off the lip? is aluminum, so how would i do that?
Man that’s a weird design choice. I don’t think the inside of a formed or extruded aluminum tube is going to have great surface contact on the seatpost with just a wedge holding it in. Less contact means more movement and more opportunities to squeak.
If you want to try shimming it, I’d go with shim on the forward side of the wedge and use a little spray adhesive or something to keep stuck to the wedge.
Probably someone at a giant dealer with more experience with these frames/posts would have better advice.
dim recollections:
“SLR” levers (æro, brake cables under the tape) pull the same amount of brake cable as old non-æro levers.
“Super SLR” levers (shift-cable-out-the-side shakes, and their very last standalone brake levers) pulled more cable than the older levers.
“New Super SLR” and “SLR-EV” levers (all-cables-under-the-tape shakes) pull even more cable yet.
Shimano’s cable disc brakes are from the NSSLR era. I was completely unable to get CX77 calipers to work with TRP RRL levers - no matter how tight I placed the pads, I’d pull the levers to the bars before generating decent stopping force. With SSLR levers (Dura Ace 7700), I’d still end up pulling the levers further than you’d normally expect - but once the brakes started to bite, they’d stop very well with little effort.
Anecdotally, SRAM levers are close to SSLR levers in cable pull and the Tektro/TRP/Dia Compe plain brake levers are closer to the SLR levers in cable pull. I don’t know where other brand’s mechanical calipers fall in terms of what cable pull they will tolerate/expect for ideal operation.
Does anyone ever grind off the little useless tabby doo that you have to thread a chain through on shimano derailleurs cages? This question is blahg related, grant mentioned they do nothing and i am thinking he’s probably right and i should start cutting them off, but maybe he isn’t and i shouldn’t?
Only thing I think it could do is provide a little structure to the cage if you bonk it on something? I’m not even sure that works theoretically though
