The rear is actually that same WTB wheel. I’ve put almost 8k miles on it with zero issues!
I did just notice that link I sent is for a 29”… I need that 12x142 hub with replaceable caps and an HG freehub with a 27.5 wheel
not sure how you ride or where or what bike you are putting it on
I am just pointing out that there is not alot of room in that price for a good hub / spokes and a quality build.
it’s obviously a great price if it does the job you want it to do. just concerned that they don’t list a weight, brand of the spokes, brand of the hub. it’s alot of unknowns.
It’s just my delivery bike, all I need is sealed bearings, the thru axle with QR caps has felt like a massive QoL upgrade vs the cup/cone hub it replaced so idk…
Better that it‘a good enough for little as possible
so the question is: would you spend $80+ to rebuild the WTB i29 or just get a new one for $180
What hub do you have now?
hipster nascar they call it, or was that track racing
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I think it’s a sealed bearing formula hub. 12x142 with QR caps
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if the stuff I had on hand was in good shape I would rebuild
if it was worn out and looked streese I would buy the new one
but also I really like building wheels
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I was dithering over a similar choice, replace $40 rim or buy new $109 wheel. I opted to replace the rim. Robust hub, spokes seemed ok with no breakages in few thousand miles of singletrack. Mentally, I put $59 towards a better wheel in the future.
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Should I stop fucking with square taper bottom bracket spindle lengths and old XT triples converted to singles and just grab a 2pc 51XX 1x cranket so I finally have a correct chainline?
Edit: one like is enough for me, consider it done thanks
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Geatrade always seems to have returned Shimano cranks: New & Used Mountain Bike Cranksets | Sale: Mountain Bike Drivetrains - Upgrade your Drivetrain | Geartrade | Compare Top Used Mountain Bike Parts | Geartrade at Geartrade
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It’s a $40 rim and a Novatec sealed bearing hub.
@Brendal_Crimpton I have those in stock I think… I’ll look tomorrow.
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I don’t think it’ll be as easy as I was thinking. I’ve currently got a 47mm chainline with the ring on the inside of the crank on a 122mm BB (I thought I had a 113 in there for some reason), where the Deore (for example) would have a 52mm chainline. Fine for Boost hubs but probably not what I’m after on a 135 hub. I should just get a shorter BB and move the ring to the outside after all.
Thanks Braden!
It’s 27.5”
12x142 thru with 135QR caps
The one I have is tubeless ready if that helps you narrow it down, I saw a few aren’t. I can’t find the 27.5 version in stock anywhere on line.
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Would a small, generic portable compressor have enough fluff to help me get ESI grips off?
My tiny 2 gallon thing sure doesn’t. Maybe I’m doing it wrong. I usually just elbow grease em off.
use hand sanitizer to make the silicone slippery
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What is actually the deal with this Mash All Road frame? I mean the geometry seem bonkers. Very long and low, more so than a 54cm Tarmac too.
It’s still pretty tall; the size L has a 155mm HT and only a 585 ETT. But at least you could put a pair of deep drops onto it and approximate a comfortable riding position.
Just get a long thin screw driver, or even a spoke, carefully sneak it down between bar and grip, tip some gizz down the side. Window cleaner works best IMHO cos it’s so thin. Any alcohol based thing should work.
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Check the geo against older road bikes - much closer to 2000s era than current - way tall everything is sort of endurance - road bikes. It’s almost spot on the 54 2008 Tarmac S Works geometry - HT difference is mostly due to external/internal measurement.
It’s a road bike with fat tires, all-road some say.
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