Do you run older 105 cranks on your fixie?

I’ve got an old (8spd) 105 crank that I want to use on a conversion. Anyone know what BB length I’ll need? I plan on starting with a 110 and working from there, but if anyone is running this set-up, your input would greatly speed the process.

square taper right?

I’m using a 110 Shimano un54, works great. Had it over a year now and its just as smooth as the day I bought it.


I’m eight-speed 105 cranks and a 107mm BB on my IRO, but 110 should work just fine. Shimano UN54, too.

I ran a pair of 105 (1050) with a 107mm and had to run on the inside but my 600s work on the outside with the same BB. Even though Sheldon says the should be the same.

Both were off by 1-2mm but work/ed great.

There are some NOS 105s on ebay right now, the silver-painted looking ones from the early 90s or so. Some in perfect shape, and some slightly cheaper with shop wear. I’d love to find the older 600s for my townie build - the ones with “Shimano 600” engraved down near the pedal hole - but they seem to be going for about $20 more than I’d like to pay right now, so I am considering the 105s.

I had some gorgeous Toplines but I moved them to my fixed gear and cracked one of them within five miles.

I use 105 cranks, models 1056 and 1057 with 110mm IRO BBs for a 43mm chainline.

I’m putting together an old geared Specialized Allez for the girlfriend which is all Shimano 600. I would’ve liked to have gotten a decent set of those 600 cranks to throw on there to match the rest of the group, but they were going for more than I was looking for. So I got a later model set of DA cranks. WTF?

I think only vintage cranks are worth anything, anymore. Anything more modern is too new to be vintage or collectible, but since the advent of press-fit and external bottom brackets, too out-of-date to interest roadies.

Thanks. Guess I’ll start with the 110 like I planned. That seems like the cure-all of converted road cranks. I ran a 110 on a Gipiemme, Super Maxy, and a cheap RPM crank and they all worked great.


These were great. I managed to get a pair discounted because they had some completely unnoticeable “shop-wear”, which was instantly negated by taking my CX bike on a MTB trail and bashing up my crank. I think I paid $30 after shipping, which was well within my budget and a great deal for a brand new crank.