depends on what bike.
the FG its as long as i want as i drink my beverage and wait for the glue to dry admiring the clouds and wondering why they always look like a penis or jewish star.
the DH bike, fuck that shit. i’ve brought it into LBS to do that before, probably 20mins. god damn steal beads
This made me laugh. Out loud. At work. People looked.
front wheel- probably about 5 minutes
rear wheel- depends on how many people i have around…seriously. it’s a sun venus rim and for some reason it’s hell with any tire. right now i’m using an everwear and it’s almost impossible. i have to use steel levers because plastic ones snap. i had a bike shop owner/mechanic/buddy give up trying to put it on once.
I wish a beer would magically appear in my hand everytime I had to fix a flat.
dave… where have you been?
you haven’t posted in forever.
Pretty quickly. But I take a long time getting the rear wheel back on. I don’t know why, but I suck at chain tension. It usually goes like wrench wrench wrench fuck wrench wrench wrench fuck wrench wrench wrench fuck. Is there some trick or am I just an idiot.
This made me laugh. Out loud. At work. People looked.[/quote]
It’s the only way I know how to deal with it, OK. You shouldn’t laugh at me, meanie.
I have a feeling this would work too:
I change bike tires at light speed. pffft catch up losers.
Everwears are definitely a pain in the ass to change. Probably ten minutes to change a tire on the fixed because of them. It takes considerably less on the road bike, I can just roll the tire off by hand.
Everwears aren’t as hard as fucking continental ultra sports. PITA those are.
I think the worst are specalized armidillos in just about any size. and the intence DH tires make a close second.
I was just coming here to say that I can change most tubes in three or four minutes, sometimes less if it’s a 26" MTB tire. The biggest exception is fucking MATRIX RIMS. Last night we had a long conversation in the shop about how no one, even the guys with 20 years experience, can get a tire onto a Matrix rim in any reasonable amount on time.
Really though, it all depends on the tire/rim combination.[/quote]
simply because this thread was on my mind and i had to do it anyway, i timed myself putting on my new ultrasport on my front wheel (matrix to DA). 37 minutes. that’s taking off the old worn out tire too. i was VERY pleased. i can’t wait to get my open pros in. as good looking and lightweight as these rims are, i truly hate them. i dread getting a flat on the road.
[quote=“bonechilling”] …fucking MATRIX RIMS. Last night we had a long conversation in the shop about how no one, even the guys with 20 years experience, can get a tire onto a Matrix rim in any reasonable amount on time.
[/quote]
You beat me to it. I got lots or practice changing flats when I worked at a shop. I remember two instances where we had to deal with matrix rims. For the first I stayed (luckily) out on the floor and only went in to the back later to ask what all that yelling was about. For the second, we had both wheels and me and a mechanic had a race to see who could get the tire on fastest. I think we both took about 20 minutes (not counting the hour long breaks that we took between attempts).
In an attempt to create a lighter racing rim, Matrix started making their mtb rims narrower. But to keep the large tire from popping the bead, they made the rims with a diameter a few mm larger than standard. Like 561mm instead of 559mm.
both.
[quote=“sir sheldon”]Some folks who are used to derailer bikes find it frustrating, especially with a nutted hub. This is usually because they don’t know the technique of “walking” the wheel back and forth in the fork ends.
Start by installing the wheel at approximately the correct position and tightening the axle nuts. They don’t need to be super tight at this stage, but should more than finger tight. Check the chain tension and wheel alignment.
Most likely, the chain will be a bit loose, but perhaps the wheel is correctly aligned. Loosen one of the axle nuts and push the tire to the side so that the loose side of the axle moves to the rear, then tighten the axle nut you loosened.
Now the chain tension should be better, but the wheel is no longer centered between the chainstays. Loosen the other axle nut and re-center the wheel in the frame. This will actually tighten the chain a little bit more.
The key is to keep one or the other of the axle nuts tight at all times, and “walk” the wheel forward and back.
This takes a bit of practice and getting used to how much axle movement is needed to adjust a given amount of chain droop, but it isn’t really hard as long as you keep one side secured at all times.[/quote]
First rain of the season had me with two flats yesterday (my first day back riding since I mangled my arms.) The first took me 2:15 and the second took me over 5 minutes because I was talking to friends. I used co2 for both because I’m lazy as hell.
Go for it.
This thread is in Bikeforums.
This might sound odd…but for tensioning a chain I find it very useful to wedge my Ulock between my wheel and my seat stays. You can use the lock as leverage to adjust tension and alignment. I know its not a difficult task to begin with but some might find this helpful.
Also, I tend to suuuck at changing flats quickly.
“I got a flat, should I buy a new wheelset?”
yes, your current one is ruined, give it to me.