it wouldn't be tarck without a dyno thread

I asked a similar question awhile ago with the Ritchey fork. @jimmythefly had a clever solution, will see if I can dig it up

edit: conversation starts here

Thanks.

What did you wind up doing?

Bought a different fork :man_shrugging:

(Ritchey went out of stock the next day)

Well shit.

Carbonda actually asked me if a fork that had a bunch of extra mounts was ok and I said yes, please. But someone found the normal fork and went back to plan A…

So here I am. I’m thinking something like what it comes with, but longer and I bend it to fit.

Old and full of junk LBS helped me out with this:

To go on the rack mount.

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So that didn’t work.

Because it should go on the left side of the fork, it gradually loosens and I’m afraid to tighten it down any more than I did.

What I really need is something that attaches to two of the mounts. Or something to hang it from the bars, but there’s very little space outside the clamp coz the carbon bars are all aero and whatever and leave like 5mm of actual round bar.

This is becoming a chore.

Also, can someone link me to the part of this convo where I can see how I’m suppose to wire this up with that fancy microphone stuff?

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there’s a neat but pricy one arm handlebar lamp mount, i think it’s B&m? i’ve been using them for years with no problems

Does this work?

https://www.bike24.com/p2242391.html

Not in stock there now, but I used one of these for a while when I was using a crown-mounted cable hanger on my bike. Worked fine, I think I just needed to bump it left or right every once in a while

Maybe? What are those little tabs on the sides?

Also, I tried the microphone coax wire one time and I didn’t like it. If you can find the Schmidt coax wire for dynamos, I like that much better

I think those are just cable keepers

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Why didn’t you like it and what’s the difference?

The microphone stuff I ordered based on tarck rec had some weird plastic fibers in it along with the copper. I just found it hard to work with because I’m not great at wiring. Schmidt costs more but is all copper and I’ve wired up a couple bikes with it easily.

I discovered that too…

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From that earlier conversation that @dotMR linked to:

That was using two old stainless fender struts (Zefal? maybe SKS?). Anyways they can be kind of a PITA to bend an eye on the end that doesn’t have one, definitely want a selection of pliers and a bench vise and small hammer really help.

I wonder if using a large chunk of chainring to span two of the fork holes would work? Or some combination of that + old brake arms or disc rotors?


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OK even more of a forehead-slap moment, but there are a zillion accessories and mounts and brackets already set up to mount to two bottle-cage boss spacing. Can one of those be modified to hold your light?

The three-lobed mounts on this Origin8 Hydracage thing look damn near perfect!
You’d just need to drill out the threads on the bottle-boss spaced holes.

Or this stem cap mount adapter (among others).

Or something like this Topeak “Alt Position Mounts” (of which other companies offer lots of versions).

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I found a combination of reflector brackets that might work off the handlebars. And I was thinking about using the bottle spacing method on the fork and having a friend 3D print something like that bracket above, but with as little reach as possible and still mount the lamp.

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image

can you use the slotted section of something like this, with the light clamped by a bolt + nylock nut at the top?

The more I look at this the more I think you’re exacy right.

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you want this as STL for 3d-printing?Screenshot at 2021-12-01 10-36-13

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