I needed a light for the townie so I grabbed one of these. It’s a little bigger than an Eyc. Nice switch on top. All plastic but feels pretty solid. It has very crude optics, just a forward facing LED with some refractors on the top to give it a sort-of cutoff shape. The beam shape has some weird artifacts too. And it’s only 15 lux. It delivers $20 worth of light but I’d recommend spending a little more money.
Thank you! The dithering continues.
Does this guy like anything?
Pulled the cheapo trigger on this thing, its for city use only, a bike I probably won’t ride a ton through the winter anyways, and my first dynamo taillight, which I might put with a different light anyways. Will report back whenever this gets here on the slow boat from china.
Also, the $20 Spanninga Kendo doesn’t seem to have a standlight. I felt like STZVO required them, but I guess not.
what light has the best standlight?
and if I go cabin fever DIY this winter: could you wire a larger capacitor (more capacious capacitor?) into the light?
I can’t say for more modern lights, but the first-gen IQ Cyo has the supercap mounted in a non-horrible place, so it should be moderately easy to cut it off and stick a larger one into place.
(exhibit A: IQ Cyo guts)
(this one is dismantled not because it failed but because I want to put it in a different casing. I was originally thinking of a sleek little carbon fiber case, but if I do end up making a Pedersen minivelo I’d want to put it into a mini carbide lamp-alike case.)
cool, that helps, thanks! I’m thinking that my IQ-X may become a test lamp this winter, provided I find a superior alternative.
If this happens, I’ll doubtless be crapping up this thread with lots of nonsense
You should make a dyno Mars light.
After I was right hooked a couple of years ago I spent quite a bit time researching just that thing. The actual mars lights use a motor and a cam to rotate the light in the figure-8; various model railroaders have tried to emulate it with LEDs, but you’d really need something on the order of 16 dimmable LEDs so you can emulate the motion of the actual light without there being visible jumps between the LED positions. So either take the weight & electrical penalty of having something moving the lens assembly, or the money penalty of having a bunch of high-powered LEDs and whatever sort of optics you’ve need to have to get beam that moves around like it should.
(And then I’d probably still get hit by cars, because drivers are frighteningly unaware that bicycles exist even when they’re starting directly at them.)
For 26" lyfe, this is a heck of a deal
https://yubabikes.com/cargobikestore/dynamo-hub-wheel-led-lights-combo
Don’t expect much, but getting fully setup for ~$100 is a pretty good deal.
Wheel is going to be heavy, but hey it’s cheap.
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Haz anyone with v.2 H/G’s routed their dyno wires through the fork? I see an opening on the drive side and an entry point from under the fork crown… bad idea?
just bought a beater MTB
hell yes
I got one of the last two items of that kit, will provide a review when it comes in.
Did it a while ago, hub is working fine, powering a Herrmann Black Pro and a BM taillight on my Edgerunner.
No idea about the lights, gave them to a friend for his wizard-level DIY electric bikes
Ordered one of these, seems decently tough. Aluminum shell but the threads feel like it might crossthread if you aren’t careful. Charges by MicroUSB and the moun zipties to your saddle rails. I have been leaving it on “auto” so it only lights up when the motion sensor goes off, stopping or starting from a red light. Then stays on for a short period of time. Acting like a brake light in addition to my dyno rear light that stays on all the time. I need to play with the other settings, hoping to find an auto setting that flashes when activated.
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How’s the battery life?
Dunno yet. Hasn’t gone dead but just put it on this weekend. Rode 50 miles on Sunday and a little bit of commuting earlier this week. Since its not on 100% of the time I doubt i will have to recharge it very often.
How long is the delay between ON->OFF when it senses the bike has stopped moving?
Can you easily remove it from the bike to charge it?