purely out of curiosity, is it possible to build an ebike with middrive and front+rear motors? would it just have a ton of torque? or could it reach a higher top speed?
idk shit about ebikes, friend of a friend in CANADA wants to buy an e-thing for “crusing, road use, not super offroad” and asked me about this one:
looks low end spec and shit, the fork looks like the first point of failure and probably unnecessary. any alternatives in a similar price point I can suggest to them?
I know this is more canadian pesos but its 100% worth getting a bike with a real drive system
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Probably worth checking this out on Sunday, or after when the video from their live event is available.
why do all ebike websites look like that?
I’ve seen a number of dual-hub builds. Would def increase torque. Top speed improvements would depend on the function of the weakest link’s max motor RPMs and wheel diameter.
Not sure how hard it is to configure the controls to work or best options re pedal assist / throttle / motor brake cutoff. Maybe you could have one PAS and one throttle-controlled. One thing to consider is that in most jurisdictions you are legally obligated to audibly declare a culturally appropriate catch phrase when operating the second power plant. ‘Afterburners engaged!’ or ‘Warp Drive!’ or ‘This one goes to 11.’ or something like that
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vtec just kicked in yo
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My old LBS proprieter rode one of these, he said it was weirdest when riding up steep hills. Not really an bike, more of an e-farm-bike, but it is 2x. 1000 watts in each wheel, thats a bit! This is the first time ive been to their site. I would love to try some e-motos. https://www.ubcobikes.com/products/2x2-utility-bike/
Stuff is getting real, just ordered this kit from Grin Tech:
All axle motor fast wind, built into a babby wheel
Phaserunner controller
Sempu torque BB
Big ass 26.5 AH battery
Satiator charger
Controller isn’t expected in stock until early next week, then there’s the wheel build, COVID, and a 13-16 day shipping time. So who knows when it will all show up.
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Oooo that sounds awesome and HS that’s a big battery. All the range.
I’ve been really focused on some gardening projects so haven’t made much progress on this front yet.
Little jelly / glad you are going first so I can hear how it goes, ha.
It wasn’t a good trade off financially. 60% more expensive for only a 38% increase in capacity. Going for the 19.3 AH battery would have saved 1.55 Katu.
Oh well. Total overkill, but all this is an experiment and buying a larger battery later is even more expensive.
serious q - why? seems like battery tech is getting cheaper and denser rapidly
Wonder if demand outrunning supply will start driving up prices with seemingly every product in the world needing a battery lately.
I was thinking shorter term here. The difference between them was about $300, but to buy the larger battery outright is >$800.
@Andrew_Squirrel, did you take power for your lights from the DC output on the Cycle Analyst? I found this pic of yours, but can’t tell where these wires are coming from.
I can’t remember exactly why I didn’t use the output of the CycleAnalyst but there was definitely a good reason. Maybe I was going to exceed the current draw of the regulator based upon the spec sheet?
Instead I bought one of these and removed the barrel jack and created a Y that went to both the rear and front lights.
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/andersontap.html
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Thanks, gonna see if they can add that to my existing order.
Did you just use a 12V motorcycle light switch?
Yeah, I was a little annoyed that it’s sold as waterproof switch because bottom is open to the world but it works fine, albeit HUGE. Wish it was about half the size.
Motorcycle Headlight Switch Handlebar Toggle Switch with On Off Push Button for U5 U7 U2 Motorcycles Scooter Electrombile Motorbike-7/8inch 22mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07483PMX3
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Okay got the Anderson tap and they’ll ship it with the rest of the stuff.
Huh, I discovered last night that Grin has a kit for the same motor with the controller integrated into the battery and a new waterproof connector between that controller and Cycle Analyst. It doesn’t allow as many amps to flow and that probably doesn’t matter for me.
The external controller I ordered does have the new waterproof connector, but it seems like it’s joined up with an adapter to the Cycle Analyst’s non-waterproof connector. Not having to fabricate something to mount the external controller would be nice.
Trying to figure out if I need to care about this at all.