Why is it acceptable for the bafang bbshd to have spindle play? I tore one apart today expecting to find it destroyed inside but apparently it just has to do with “manufacturing tolerances”
Watched the Grin Tech multi-motor you-tube thing and it was pretty interesting. It was also 1.75 hours long.
Seems like the torque vs speed thing is more dependent on which configuration of motors you chose. He went through an example of a high power case where a double motor setup is advantageous because you’re splitting the power between the motors instead of dumping it all into a single motor and overheating it. At lower power it seems that a single motor is more efficient.
Sounds like a mid-drive + direct drive motor is a pretty good combo.
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I am excited for you to R&D this so I can duplicate your final configuration
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I’m mostly just copying Mr. Squirrel, except with a different motor. Pretty much everything else is the same.
Now I’ve seen it all
How does this not just wind up and destroy itself
Magic/science
Full answer is that it’s a flattened cable that passes through the ID of the rotor mount to support all sorts of axle options (q/r all the way to 20mm thru) and single-side use.
Edit: unless you were talking about the lacing, then my previous answer stands
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I was talking about the lacing. Glad magic is real, at least til someone explains this with science
whoa… didn’t think thru axle motor hubs had been figured out yet. Finally a front wheel solution for my cagro, more dithering needed.
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It’s not really radially laced, the angle between rim and spoke is similar to a regular wheel. If you imangine extending the spokes on the line they take past the big flange to where a regular flange would be, they would cross. i think that’s part of why they have paired holes in the flange instead of evenly spaced
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All my parts arrived weeks ago, but have had almost zero motivation to do (e)bike work at all. Figured I should at least check the caliper clearance on the hub. Seems fine with the stock brakes, and better than I was expecting actually.
This dumb thing is going to end up being so heavy.
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Gonna need you to put this all together and write a primer on how to do it because I’m bored and want to read something and look at pictures
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oh he is openly doing eLorry R&D for us
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At a glacial pace
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Since you’re bored…
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that picture is going to give me a panic attack
Really sad that cheap x sketchy e-bike kits have killed the 2-stroke bicycle conversion
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Finally getting this rig dialed. Brake boosters arrived yesterday and made it far less terrifying to descend with.
OG stokemonkey mid drive kit that needed a new battery, also the throttle was broken, also the controller didn’t do anything. Now running the motor off a ebay 48Vx20Ah battery and ebay controller. The controller has 3 speed switch input, wired to low because the higher settings were just unreasonable without a bigger drive ring and more robust drivetrain. Also had to set the motor sprocket quite a bit inboard of the drive chainring to compensate for how much it flexes the other way. Planning to build a cage for the triangle battery to put it between the seatstays and rear fender which will get it out of the bag.
It’s wild to me how low-rent/wild-west all this e-bike stuff is. Between the motor, controller, throttle and battery, there were 0 connector styles/pinouts in common. Now I have a nice collection of crimp connectors and housings. I did a surgery on the controller to install a switch and sense wires for the cycleanalyst head unit (and also to put some standoffs between the controller board that was flapping in the breeze and the metal case!)
I was trying to work out how the hall sensor lines went, curiosity got the better of me and I popped the lid off the motor. Don’t do this.
The reason you shouldn’t do this is that whatever piece of ambient ferritic debris is floating about will fly in. This debris will rub around and make noise and even intermittently short the coils. So you will need to take it the whole way apart to clean it.
It takes about 100lb of force to pull the rotor away from the magnet ring, which represents a giant pinch/crash hazard, so you will have to knock together a jig to help dis/reassemble them in a slightly more controlled fashion.
Metal shims here are to keep the rotor from crashing into the magnets and more or less centered before one side gets bolted back on. Then used the drill press to guide it in
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man I love tarck
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