Cycle analyst display started flickering last week and throttle stopped working, eventually display went blank with only the Phaserunner controller having an LED flickering (but not in error code way, completely random). Had a minute to diagnose today, test each part individually. Couldn’t figure out what was wrong for a long time, MOSFETS checked out ok, display worked fine on bench supply, opened battery and saw correct voltage inside and out, then finally had idea to check the battery cradle (that bolts to the down tube). Turns out the wire broke off the solder-cup battery connector and was intermittent because heat shrink was keeping the corroded solder joint in contact. Weird because there is strain-relief on the wire side and connector side is fixed in place so not much chance for strain causing the joint failure.
Phew, glad it wasn’t more expensive!
Does the strain relief in your case look similar to the Reention cases? Reading your post has got me wanting to pad that area in mine so the wire can’t bounce around (much) inside.
Replacement connector assembly for Hailong downtube batteries. New silver bullet plug model has connection leaves on the female side instead of on the male pins and is expected to be more reliable in a high vibration environment. These plugs can handle high amperage 40A motor controllers and fit the Hailong-03 enclosures. We recommend them as a replacement connector option for people who have had intermittent connection issues with the gold plated bullet plugs.
Not exactly related to my problem but I have old style where the springy “connection leaves” are on the male plug instead of the receiver.
Finally have all the parts to work on converting the Lorry over to wet brakes and I’m not sure it’s going to work after messing with the new brake sensors. The Tripwire sensors from Grin are kind of weird.
Even with the cable way mounted way out on the lever in the pic, they don’t switch on until the lever is almost fully pulled back, and don’t turn off until fully released, if even then. I’ve gotten both sensors into a place where they didn’t turn off even after the sensor cable was pulled out as far as it could. Mounting the cable more perpendicular to the lever/grip makes for more travel, but then it’s interfering with fingers on the grip. Lots of controls mounted to the bars so there’s no room to space the levers away from the grips.
Lame, the sensors cost more that the brakes.
The Bafang sensors don’t look like they’ll work either. Because of where the pivot is, there’s nowhere on these levers where it will pull the magnet away from its sensor.
Assuming the pivot points are similar between the two levers, I’m kind of surprised that works based on what I read about the Bafang sensors.
The Tripwire product info page shows it working with another Shimano lever of similar geometry, and at a better mounting point, so I probably need to keep playing with them and get in touch with Grin before giving up.
Damn I would be snagging that on my fingers all the time. I have the same brakes as you and I’ve gotta believe you could 1) secure the wire along the main brake body and 2) make a drop bracket that zig-zags down and under the lever pivot area that gives enough travel to work the sensor.
My perspective as an ebike curious but ignorant person: Can you not just stop throttling when you hit the brakes? Like how necessary is this feature to begin with? I don’t have it in my car.
Depends on the setup. I don’t think any of the mainstream stuff is doing it. It’s more necessary if the bike has a throttle with a cruise control or a direct drive motor that can do brake regen.
My torque sensing bb can act a little jumpy if I non-consciously change the orientation of my legs while coming to a stop but I guess the applied brakes would likely cancel out the pulse if I didn’t have the cutoff levers. I’ve bumped the throttle and rotated cranks while dismounted a couple times (once in front of a group of people at Cranksgiving volunteering) and had the bike try to run away so these days I’ve taught myself to either switch off battery or just squeeze brake lever as much as possible. Worst case would be entangling massive bungee net with throttle lever while loading up.
Oh, I’ve noticed a bit of a jolt from the bike when I’m stopped at a light and have a foot on one pedal, which is a little weird because it’s not setup to use the torque sensing right now, just cadence. Paranoid me is always keeping one brake on when I’m stopped anyway.
Pretty much never have the bike turned on until I’m actually ready to ride away.
I see! So it has to do with the potential of pedal fiddling while the bike is stopped being misconstrued by the system as instructions to go now. Thanks for the clarification!
I actually saw this happen to an ebikebro at the bike co op once. The bike crashed into a pile of stuff and made a good amount of ruckus.
My bbshd, eggrider v2 display, and 52v 20.5ah battery was $1300 shipped from em3ev.com
I’m very happy with the setup so far. 1500 commuter miles so far. 44 miles round trip.
Have had the motor on two different bikes. Went from the first bike with 700x35c to the bike with 26x2.3. Still working on the setup on the current bike.
I went with a kill switch button instead of playing with brake lever limit switches and halls effect sensors for shifting. I couldn’t be happier. Simple setup and once I got used to it, it is like second nature.
Clutch in, shift, clutch out. and the bbshd will kill power if you pedal backwards so thats a failsafe too
