[quote=liquify][quote=Rusty Piton]
I’d two stair gap on them and destroy the front if they were free[/quote][/quote]
[quote=DumbJim][quote=liquify][quote=Rusty Piton]
I’d two stair gap on them and destroy both if they were free[/quote][/quote][/quote]
I knew a guy with a spinergy front wheel that had snapped a spoke at the rim. He set it with a few wood screws. The coward dies a thousand deaths, the hero but one (when his wheel explodes and blasts wood screws through his skull)
I forgot that gap was a 5 stair. That’s even funnier.
i’m legit impressed that the dude in that gif manages to destroy BOTH wheels
that is how you know your wheels suck - if someone can destroy both in one single maneuver.
I thought it was going to be a complete and was thinking “eh that sounds about right”
But yea that’s fucking ridiculous
I know that dude. He’s basically just looking for the highest offer.
Should someone tell him that suntour parts aren’t made in America?
He knows, he’s just referring to the build of the era. He’s incredibly knowledgable about track bikes (and bikes in general) but isn’t the most focused person. He probably didn’t think the wording through.
Oddly I had this conversation like 2 days ago. It sucks that to build an all MUSA track bike you can’t really get decent cranks. You can spend a billion dollars on phils or pauls but they’re not as good as japanese or italian made.
Could the same not be said for building an all musa version of many things?
MY TOYOTA IS ONLY ~70% MUSA WTF
since this just came up, my buddy bought an 80s? cannondale track frame, Superbe cranks, no fork. Where can I get the best mass produced cheap fork for it these days? should I stick with threaded for resale value?
Soma if you can get wholesale would be good. I think they do one that’s threadless and black with true track take.
Is the steamroller fork still made? Will the a-c work?
In fact I have a black one that I’m trying to get rid of
I’d assume the steamroller fork would be way too long since it’s all about FFF
Rake depends on the size of the frame, they have a chart in that PDF.
But stick with threaded. You can get threadless 1" stuff but you’re basically stuck with (this sounds super dumb after our MUSA chat) chris king and petaluma-era Salsa stems. So as MUSA as you can get but for a Cdale track you or your friend should stick with the stock team build of a jaguar 90.
Another fun fact from that catalog is that the paint color shown on the cdale track is actually a team color only used on about 200 bikes that had a different geometry. The ocean blue that we are all familiar with is the stock super aggressive track geo but the ice blue shown in the catalog is a bit more relaxed. There are not a lot of those ice blue frames left and those I’ve seen generally use a repop fork or OG ocean blue fork.
Also another fun fact from that little book is that the 2800 series road bikes had a 1 1/4" threaded cockpit. Fucking 1.25" threaded! In 1993! Luckily that dick bag Chris King makes a stepdown threadless option so you can put a modern road fork on it.
you can also just buy cheap problem solvers cups and use a normal 1.125" headset
I’d rather pay a premium for a single pressed component than two pressed pieces doubling the possibility of tolerance problems.
Also I have king headsets on 4 bikes right now so clearly I’m not that offended by his awfulness.