Really really?
Got my dyno setup all mounted last night. I’m in love. Did the quick and dirty install because I know I’m going to redo it at least 2 or 3 times before spring anyways.
I just used the wire supplied with my B&M lights held in place with black electrical tape. I ran the wire to the rear light on the bottom of the downtube and then up the back of the seat tube which I’m not terribly happy with but I figured it was better than on the top tube because of how much I’m carrying this thing up and down stairs. I wondering if there might be some kind of peel and stick plastic sleeving I can use later on to move the wires to the top tube without risk of snagging or pinching them while on the train.
Since the hub grounds at the fork, can I just ground both of the ground leads from the headlamp to the fork and run a single wire from the hub to the headlamp and then back to the tail light?
I’ll clean it up and show ya’ll so everyone can tell me everything I did wrong.
That’s exactly what I need.
Yeah, that would be perfect. I don’t know why I didn’t think of that stuff when I was cabling my Fredsled.
I wonder if the gray matches their gray housing, I’m way overdue for a re-cabling.
I bought it from the shop.
but already had electrical tape on rawland. And the tape is still holding, so I haven’t done anything.
If you’re referencing the Di2 external wire cover it’s black or white.
Man I never had luck with that di2 wiring cover shit. I always prepped the surface really well and everything but it was always kinda peeling off when it came back for a tune up so i’d have to do it over again.
If you’re referencing the Di2 external wire cover it’s black or white.[/quote]
http://www.bikewagon.com/shimano-di2-wire-cover-set-gray
hey hey excellent!
Last 200 I put on was 50% carbon riding bike racers and 50% folks intent on chilling. Just about everyone was on 28mm tires or smaller. I wish we had the kind of roads in the richmond area that called for Horizons on randos.
Is it just peel and stick? Maybe replace what comes on it with 3M VHB?
Is it just peel and stick? Maybe replace what comes on it with 3M VHB?[/quote]
Yes it is. Idunno because its been years since ive used it or thought of it
I still wanna give it a try. I don’t like zip ties and tape is only acceptable as a temporary thing.
I’ll report back with my findings, if I do it.
i ordered a variety of pieces of my hopeful setup. it’s basically the same as what face bought. thanks for doing all the work face.
so far my major mistake was ordering an iron cross rim, opening the box (it arrived after one day!) and only then seeing that the max pressure is 45psi for tubeless. i could get away with up to 50psi in a 28 tire rather than a 32, but really do not feel like taking my chances. i can imagine a teammate helpfully pumping up my front wheel some day and having it literally explode. ended up returning it for a WTB KOM i23
hub should be here whenever bike24 gets it to me. rim should be here friday. still need to measure hub and buy spokes.
do you guys test the hub/light wiring collabo before you actually build up the wheel? it would be my luck to build the whole thing and then find out that something’s wrong with the hub.
From what I’ve heard Shimano hubs never say die. I had Motorbacon build my wheel up then I promptly installed everything like a week later, it all works.
So, I took some pictures of the bike like I said I would but instead of cleaning up I decided to get it dirtier. I used the wire that came with the lights for now and it’s all held in place with electrical tape and a few zip ties. I’m not super pleased with how I did it but I fully plan on rewiring it with a single conductor wire and running the ground through the frame and fork at a later date. For now, it works and I don’t think it would have any problems if I left it as is.
I ran the wires from the hub with a little loop up the inside of the fork leg, not sure if I want to keep it there or run it on the back of the leg later on. Another idea was to drill a hole on the inside of the crown lug and feed it in through the vent hole on the bottom of the leg but I’m not sure if that’ll come back to bite me some day. I plan on moving the light up to the bars eventually, I don’t like how much light hits the top of the tire. Another thought is to mount it to the rack but I’d really like to be able to remove the rack without touching the light and having the switch on the rear of the light closer to me will be pretty convenient.
It’s got a decent loop from where it’s zip tied to the light mount to the first wrap of tape on the down tube, I can fully rotate the bars till they touch the frame and there’s still a little slack in the cable. I don’t like how it looks, but it functions and I’m moving the light to the bars so I’ll probably just heat shrink it to a piece of housing for this run. I kept the connectors that were crimped to the wires and used heat shrink to insulate and hold them together.
I used half of a reflector mount per someone’s suggestion in thus thread, I just filed it down flat where it bolts up to the rack braze on, used a rotor bolt here cut it fits nice.
I zip tied the wire to the unused cable stop to keep the wires from getting pulled from the light if the wire gets snagged. I also ended up using the plastic push in connector things and I’m not sure how I feel about them quite yet. They didn’t feel secure when pressing them in but they won’t pull right out when I yank on the wire. I’ve thought about soldering a wire directly to the board and using a dean’s connector or something non locking but that can wait.
Shimano hubs never say “die,” but they DO say “drag”.
I don’t notice the drag while riding. It’s fine.