What hub? Maybe you need the Lego if it’s not included? B&m lights come with wires and connectors.
this one
whats the lego?
FRONT
mount headlight
run wire down leg, securing with zipties
cut to length
split and strip end of wire
take cover off lego connector
insert wire ends into lego connector and bend around in the grooves
put cover back on
clip excess wire
click connector onto hub
you have light
REAR (with mini-legos)
mount taillight somewhere
plug taillight wire into headlight
run wire to taillight whereever it makes sense
cut to length, split and strip ends
connect to taillight with mini-legos
you have backlight
REAR (without mini-legos)
mount taillight somewhere
plug taillight wire into headlight
run wire to taillight whereever it makes sense
cut to length, split and strip ends
slide little piece of heatshrink tubing over each wire
crimp spade connectors to the wire with pliers
slide heatshrink over connector and shrink
connect to taillight
you have backlight
The SP and EYC won’t require any nerd fuckery unless you’re neurotic about your wires being perfect or invisible.
thanks dudes
Suggestion for mounting that light on the HG with a soma front rack and a wald basket?
If you can, I’d stump up a bit more for the iq cyo premium (exact model in the spreadsheet), it’s a significantly better beam.
Shimano and sp both come with the Lego connector, tail light comes with wire and the mini spade connectors to hookup to the headlight.
Depending on your rack situation you might need extra brackets as it ships with one to mount to the fork crown. Centrepull brake arms, cut down chainrings, iso pm adaptors are all good options.
cool, that is not much more, I can spring for it.
I have 2 Son centerlock disc hubs I have to get rid of. One silver, one black. Both quick release. I went 15mm.
Stealth brag
How many holes?
32
$120 net for silver (excellent condition).
$140 net for black (practically new).
OBO
Wut
Too much?
No, I really don’t need another set of 32h wheels
I might be in for the black one. How annoying are the spade connectors vs the lego?
I like them better to be honest. A little shrink wrap around the connectors makes them very strong and gives you a nice spot to pull on the wire.
[quote=drwelby]FRONT
mount headlight
run wire down leg, securing with zipties
cut to length
split and strip end of wire
take cover off lego connector
insert wire ends into lego connector and bend around in the grooves
put cover back on
clip excess wire
click connector onto hub
you have light
REAR (with mini-legos)
mount taillight somewhere
plug taillight wire into headlight
run wire to taillight whereever it makes sense
cut to length, split and strip ends
connect to taillight with mini-legos
you have backlight
REAR (without mini-legos)
mount taillight somewhere
plug taillight wire into headlight
run wire to taillight whereever it makes sense
cut to length, split and strip ends
slide little piece of heatshrink tubing over each wire
crimp spade connectors to the wire with pliers
slide heatshrink over connector and shrink
connect to taillight
you have backlight[/quote]
You didn’t mention a grounding wire?
he didn’t want nerd fuckery
Ah yes. I do
[quote=Wintage Townie]I have cantis on my Fredsled, and whenever I get on it, I am amazed at how well they work.
Suck it, nerds.[/quote]
I’ll always have a cantibike. It’s all about getting the yoke angles right and you’ll get the stopping power you need. And salmon pads, always salmon pads.