Because they suck.
(I much preferred the main beam on constantly as a DRL, and IIRC, the standlight uses the shitty DRL LEDs instead of the main beam so it’s a garbage beam when not moving. And the DRL LEDs break and it costs more.)
The standlight on the IQ-X is my only gripe with that light but I guess it’s bright enough for cars to see so it’s not really a big deal
There’s three settings on the switch, “Off” “1” and “2”, I think. But AFAIK they are the same setting. I can’t see a difference…
I think this more broadly applies to all dynamo lights with execption to something like Luxos U with battery powered standlight.
I recently upgraded from an old school Cyo and purchased a second IQ-X for my old Trek commuter and have been extremely underwhelmed with the outputs of both when stopped. The newest version has improved the slow speed flicker which is nice.
I’m disappointed that B&M isn’t shoving better buffer batteries (or larger super capacitors) in all of their latest generation lamps. I suspect it’s a reliability issue regarding the short life of batteries (and maybe cost?) but there must be a solution.
that’s why the 1752QSNDI is such a hearty recommendation
it has a long standlight without any complications
I respectfully disagree that 1752QSNDI has an acceptable stand light and actually wished with went with a DRL lamp before upgrading to a Luxos on my Orange Elephant. The whole concept of horizontal cutoff makes it difficult to be seen at intersections. Add a very dim LED pointing at the ground, not at a drivers eyeballs and you have a recipe for an underwhelming standlight.
I’ve seen these from a driver’s viewpoint: The driver next to you isn’t going to see you, but the driver across the intersection is going to see you just fine. These lights are bright, and the surface area of the lens is large and easier to see than a few very small LEDs. I have not noticed a visibility problem with my (60 lux) light, nor have I had any problem seeing someone with a dynamo light, daytime or not, as a driver. Drivers are not going to see you because they’re not looking, or because you’re in their blind spot, and no light is going to make up for that.
Your mounting location makes more of a difference: Mount the light higher, or use a tiny helmet light if you want to show up in mirrors of cars next to you. This applies for any light beam pattern, not just the horizontal cutoff style lights.
I want a relatively bright standlight that lasts at least 90 seconds
and I want it to be like the normal beam so I can see where I’d be going at an intersection, road signs, etc.
I explicitly don’t want it to be a knog-style DRL that sorta illuminates some stuff within kicking distance
I observed that my DT LED Cyo has a noticeably dimmer main LED than a non-DT LED Cyo when compared directly. It’s not noticeable when riding solo.
My supernova’s standlight sucks. When moving its more than fine but I am not happy with the standlight at all. Its an older model though
RIP Luxos U charging cable.
This past summer during the 12 day Seattle to Montana tour the charging cable was often acting intermittent. Yesterday it finally broke at the strain relief transition on the waterproof circular connector.
I took an exacto knife to the outer sheathing to have a look at the wire bundle. It’s a coaxial cable, inner sheathed wire is pretty thick but the braided shielding on the outside was very sparse. As I sliced all of the shielding wires sprinkled out of the coating like glitter having all broken at multiple locations along each strand.
Bummer.
Now considering opening the remote switch and directly soldering in the USB dongle to give it a little bit longer life.
Anyone open up a Luxos U switch yet? Tricks or tips?
How old is that? That sucks.
Did a dumb dumb and accidentally pulled the wiring out of my LEGO piece which is the positive strand coming out of the IQ-x?
Edit: nvm my google-fu sucks but I found the literature the light came with
It’s AC so it shouldn’t matter unless your lights are internally connected to brackets/ metal frame that can short to the hub axle.
I don’t think many lamp manufacturers internally connect their lights to the brackets these days.
Mine pulled apart within the first year. 
[quote=Goddamnit Gunther]Did a dumb dumb and accidentally pulled the wiring out of my LEGO piece which is the positive strand coming out of the IQ-x?
Edit: nvm my google-fu sucks but I found the literature the light came with[/quote]
I did the same thing six months ago. I think I looked for polarity marks on the lego brick and then I connected it up randomly when I couldn’t find any. Still not sure if it matters.
I kind of deduced that if it had the potential to destroy the light, they would have some bright red markings on the wires and the brick or some shit.
It totally doesn’t matter at all.
hey, my B and M thing dint not come with the cool looking plug that looks like it just plugs into my hub. What is that thing called… where do I buy it?
The lego connector comes with the hub usually. Shimano and SP are interchangeable (turns out you can also just jam the lego onto Schmidt spade terminals too). Where did your hub come from? built by others and forgot to include with the wheel?
Shimano part is available as a spare, I’d try a dyno friendly LBS as shipping on that part will be way over the part cost. But if you’re doing a euro order, you can get it easily that way too.
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/shimano-hub-dynamo-connector-39135
https://www.rosebikes.com/article/shimano-connector-for-hub-dynamos/aid:117991
