I’m 100% sure it would work, and 100% sure I don’t want to do it. I’ll keep the carbon fork because sometimes it’s fun to go fast and keep the bike light. Also, matching paint. A second fork for touring and commuting sounds better to me.
Edit: well, ok, my interest is piqued. I’ll shoot them an email.
It’s gonna be the same price to buy a new carpet fork that is actually light that you can use for your sw8 cross racing as it is to get a steel unicorn fork built. The unicorn fork can have different geometry (i.e. more rake), though, which is the only real reason to try.
Note, unicorn is deliberate. You can use whatever crown type you wish.
I just barely got through that with all the fun little tarck misspellings. Cane Creek makes a crown race for the tapered 40 that lets you run a straight steerer without replacing the lower cup and/or bearing, so you can swap from a tapered to a straight head tube. Thats the plan.
I was looking at getting a Hunter fork a while back just because I like the little inner reinforcement bit, but I’m honestly not that picky. It’s more dependent on how much work I get in the spring. A shopbro discount LHT fork gets me most of the way to where I want to be.
I did email ruckus.
I was thinking, should I get a 650+ wheelset for my Fatboy?
Would a 27.5x3" tire work well to replace 26x5" tire for to ride the thing in conditions where 5" tires are just extreme, ridiculous overkill?
OK, currently have the Canyon with Ultegra Di2 and want to build up my OPEN as a complement with some overlap.The canyon should always be ready to go, and is the fast road bike.
The OPEN will have two basic builds.
650B with 47-54mm tires for off/road shenanigans, 2x10 drivetrain, maybe 46/36
And 700c for CX. For CX I figure I’ll just use the Canyon’s wheelset (1470g) and maybe swap to just 1x10.
Right now it’s just a frame, but the plan is to order light bicycle 650bs, and SRAM hydraulic brakes/shifters (Force). I have a clutch x9 RD, and I figure I can hold off on a FD for now. I have a Campagnolo Chorus crankset I can hang on it, should I just roll with that? Otherwise I can get an FSA Gossamer 46/36 for peanuts.
Will the Force shifters work for 10 speed? Should I order the stupid Gossamer or look for something else?
why are you 10speeding everything? because you have a bunch of old wheels and chains?
no FSA cranks
will the open FIT 650x54?
so i have a couple new bikes coming this year
custom steel 650b w/ carbon cross fork
bradens ditherer (i guess this is still a maybe because nothing ever gets updated)(ill buy the fork for sure)
should i: get another 650b racer-y bike that is built sort of like a road race frame? like, just room for 650x42+thin, useless fenders? this would be the fastest rando bike in the garage.
[quote=Rusty Piton]I was thinking, should I get a 650+ wheelset for my Fatboy?
Would a 27.5x3" tire work well to replace 26x5" tire for to ride the thing in conditions where 5" tires are just extreme, ridiculous overkill?[/quote]
If you want the same BB height and lack of pedal strikes, if the bike is designed around a 5" tire, get a 29+ wheelset. And Chupacabras.
Chart:
Nice chart. I wonder how accurate those cross-sections are, and if road-ish tires also have that quasi-teardrop shape?
Durability, price.
Not even for… 50 bucks? that’s cheaper than new chainrings for my campy crankset I was thinking of throwing on it. I mean eventually I’ll probably upgrade.
Yeah, thunder burts for example and most of the singletrack around here is completely doable with those. (Stop me if I’m wrong Viggen)
wh, the FSA for $50 is probably just fine. Especially if you get a 386evo in your open frameset.
Durability, price.[/quote]
11s isn’t less durable
and it isn’t more expensive comparing like to like, the mid/low-end new 11s stuff works better than the top-end old 10s groups (though if weight-weenieing, used old Red will win on $/g)
Not even for… 50 bucks? that’s cheaper than new chainrings for my campy crankset I was thinking of throwing on it. I mean eventually I’ll probably upgrade.[/quote]
yeah the Campy BB design would be way worse, especially without a threaded shell to shim out
Ideally you’d be able to find one of these jawns and get rad without needing a pie plate cassette:
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/cranksets-road/sl-k-light-adventure-modular-bb386evo/
There’s also the option of Rotor 3D+ with their new 46/30 spiderring, but that’s prob gonna be expensive
Realtalk a random partsbin FSA 50/34 is good enough for now, or also a $90 5800 crankset would never fail you
Durability, price.[/quote]
11s isn’t less durable
and it isn’t more expensive comparing like to like, the mid/low-end new 11s stuff works better than the top-end old 10s groups (though if weight-weenieing, used old Red will win on $/g)[/quote]
Yeah, my 11 stuff shifts better than my 10. I’d go cheapest Shimano 11 speed new over buying up old 10 speed Record or whatever. In addition, the cassette spacing synchronicity across brands is a true blessing. I’ll be hoarding 11 speed in a few years.
What’s your favorite 11sp chain? I picked up a Wippermann but the price seems a little too much for future replacement chains.
Ultegra is a little smoother for a couple dollars more
AFAIK Dura-Ace only makes the pins hollow
the KMC Missing Link is a great way to join them
Yeah, for the price difference, there’s absolutely no reason not to go Ultegra. The Shimano pins have always been fine for me, and I’ve only ever broken quick links, but YMMV.
People love fucking with Wippermann and KMC chains, and pretend like they’re better than the OEM stuff from Campagnolo and Shimano… but they’re not. I don’t know, maybe they last longer on the meaningless chain wear gauge or something? That’s some reddit /bicycles shit, though. Might as well run Schwalbe Marathons, at that point. A 6800 chain is $30 shipped to your door from eBay, and should last you a year, then you spend another $30 and don’t think about it again.
Wipperman shifts funky. KMC lasts and lasts but shifts terrbily. Shimano Ultegra is the way to go, unless you want hollow pin in DA.
Patch, as for durability, 11 speed is no less durable and consumables are actually cheaper than 10 speed.
The nickel/stainless Wippermann chains hold up to some seriously stupid wear, I’ve gotten 5-6k miles out of them a few times before they stretched as measured with a ruler. Their quick links are by far the easiest to open in the field should you need to do that.
TC: I’ve been using SRAM chains after winning a brick of them in a race
